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The Caterpillar Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aspiring T 
MISSION, The S 
Roger's Arete T 
Roger's Spire T 
Steamroller T 
Winged Eel Fingerling T 

Roger's Arete 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 36
Submitted By: Sprax Lines on Sep 8, 2015

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Description 

The left side of the Caterpillar Wall is marked by a huge leaning pillar that becomes a detached spire at its top. Roger's Arete diagonals up the obvious arete on the right side of the pillar, passes a ledge, and continues up the lower-angle arete to the top of the spire. Only the lower section is bolted, and a semi-detached block leans out from the steepest part of the lower arete. Getting off that block felt awkward. It is probably easier if you are tall. Handren reported 5 bolts; I remember only 3. After the bolts and a ledge, easy climbing leads to the spire's upper face and arete (5.9). There are shallow cracks on the face, but you may need to stem from the arete to the main wall in order to place pro in a vertical crack inside the chimney. At the top of the pillar is a large block, possibly detached, slung with much tat. Belay here or continue up Aspiring.

Location 

Obvious bolted arete on the right side of the leaning pillar at the beginning of the Caterpillar Wall.

Protection 

Bolts, small to medium gear, maybe RPs. Small cams protect the move to the first bolt. For the upper arete, I did not find any good pro on the face to the left, only around to the right, inside the chimney. At the very beginning, beware of loose blocks on the face.


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