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Rogen 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mike Schneiter
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 63
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on May 30, 2017

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Description 

I'm adding this as a temporary placeholder to avoid confusion with other routes. The route is new and needs a bit more cleaning and some removal or reinforcement of questionable holds. We've climbed on it a bunch, but it still probably need a bit more love, so don't get on it unless you understand.

Start down and right of the obvious corner crack of Fallon. Climb to the base of [[Fallon's]111903271] corner, and then move right into the mini-roof on some big, blocky holds that require some big moves leading to the thin crimp crux. The route will eventually finish at a higher anchor, but it needs some more cleaning. A better option for now is to step left and finish at the Fallon anchor.

This is probably solid 10+, maybe 11-.

Location 

On the far right side of the Funny Face, it climbs the overhanging rock to the right of the obvious corner crack. Look for the rightmost of three routes with glue-in bolts.

Protection 

8 bolts plus an anchor.


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