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Rodeo queen  

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Jesse brown
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer / fall
Page Views: 881
Submitted By: Jesse Brown on Aug 29, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

This route is amazing ! Roof is challenging

Location 

To the right of "queen of hearts" . Start in the obvious center seam. Up four bolts and then move right into the meat and potatoes of the climb .

Protection 

12 quick draws


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By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jul 29, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Great route. Super fun climbing down low to not-too-burly (for the Iris) climbing through the roof. For me this is a funner version of American Beauty (I find the crux huge move/toss at the end of American Beauty to be thuggy and unpleasant). I always wondered why this line had not been bolted, so I'm glad to see someone took the initiative. Thanks Jesse!
By Bones Perkins
From: Rexburg, ID
Aug 1, 2016

This route may have at one point been a rad 12b, but there are definitely missing holds at the roof. It's still doable and quite fun up to right under the roof, but past that, it's pretty improbable through the first/main section of the roof. Maybe needs an updated anchor under the roof to utilize the fun face up to it, while keeping it realistic.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Sep 4, 2017

Bones' comment may be due to the fact that the line overlay in the latest guide is incorrect. Going out the gut of the main roof (as is indicated in the photo) is 5.14. This thing definitely goes. (but felt a little stiff for the grade, though I'm bad at roofs) Make sure you step right after clipping the 4th bolt.
By Flacker
From: Lander, WY
Sep 6, 2017

You go up 4 bolts, then head right into the route to the right fat bottom girls and then finish on that route through the 12- roof. The straight up is put out to pasture 14b I believe

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