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North Cave Rock (South Face)
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Rocky Road 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Charles Cole and Dave Houser, February 1979
Page Views: 21
Submitted By: Randy on Dec 11, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: Rocky Road topo

Description 

This route is the farthest right-hand (eastern) route on the South Face of North Cave Rock; the last route that is actually in the Cave Corridor.

Begin on slabs, then head up the steepening face past 3 bolts and several nice knobs. At the 3rd bolt, it seems you used to go straight up (perhaps a knob has broken here) instead head left into a crack/corner system, then up and left to a ledge. Several bolt anchors are to be found up and left.

Descend by downclimbing On Ramp 5.0, a left slanting ramp/chimney on the North Face of the formation.

Protection 

3 bolts and small to medium cams. 2 bolt anchor up and left.


Photos of Rocky Road Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: John Stannard leading Rocky Road.  Photo from Curt...
John Stannard leading Rocky Road. Photo from Curt...

Comments on Rocky Road Add Comment
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By Randy
Dec 16, 2004

I was hoping that someone else had done this route in recent history as we thought the crux of the route was way harder than 10c. Also, Al Bartlett show the crux as between the 2nd and 3rd bolts (10c), but for us, the crux was definitely after the 3rd bolt. The move between the 2nd and 3rd bolts did seem about 10c though.

Al also shows the route going straight up from the 3rd bolt (as does my guide). Going straight up seemed pretty rediculously hard to me, so we went left and up the crack.

The route does rely on seversal nice black knobs (hence the route name), did one break off past the 3rd bolt? Or are just completely lame?

By Bob Gaines
Dec 21, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Randy, I concur with your rating. I did the route in 2002 and remember traversing left to the crack after the third bolt, thinking AHA! that's the way it goes.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Dec 24, 2005

Any info on route 1056?
By Randy
Dec 26, 2005

Shaggy Dog 5.9, aka Route 1056. Is actually on the right side of the west face of the South Formation.