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Rocky Horror 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Don Cann, Andre Lechner - 2010
Page Views: 699
Submitted By: Mark van Eijk on Sep 20, 2012

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Description 

From the bottom it seems impossible that this route will go at 5.10-, but the highly featured, blocky stone provides an abundance of good holds that always seem to show up right where you need them. Some of the rock is still loose, but is cleaning up quickly, and this should not dissuade you from climbing this absolutely stellar route! The climbing is continuously steep, imposing, and incredibly fun!

Location 

Located in the middle of the main wall to the right of the gully and far to the right of the belay platform. Find the low and tight first bolts at the blocky and overhanging start. (If you look up you should see a small roof past the third bolt split on the left by a hand-crack)

Protection 

12 bolts to anchors. Tightly(!) spaced and low at the bottom to protect from a fall down the talus, then increasingly spaced out as you move up. Rap to descend.


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By Ed kelly
Jul 25, 2013

Really fun route, one of the best moderate sport climbs around. It seems hard the whole way, then there is a great hold right where you want it to be.
If you're finishing your day on this one I would recommend anchoring on a tree, belaying your follower up, and walking off. Just head straight back through the trees about 10 meters drop down onto the obvious trail and take a left. You avoid alot of up and down and talus scrambling that way and will be back at your car in half the time.