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Rocky Horror Show 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ron Skelton, Mark Tuttle (5/89)
Page Views: 700
Submitted By: EJoe on Nov 23, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: First crux, but sums up the beta for this climb. ...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Reid guide has you solo far right up a short 5.8 hand crack into a 4th class romp to a giant ledge, then walk left along this ledge to start the dihedral. You can alternatively climb the .10b crux section of Boneheads to gain said ledge. I personally think going direct via the Boneheads start is better, as it adds another technical element to the already diverse style of climbing required for Rocky Horror Show.

From the ledge, start with a hand crack to a small roof. The crack thins to sustained 5.10 fingers until about 2/3 of the way up. A short 5.11-ish section gets you to the first pairing of bolts which protects the route's physical crux. Top these 2 bolts and do a couple of .11 moves to a triplet of bolts. These 3 bolts protect the technical crux. Fire this section and don't botch the final mantle.

I recommend stretching your groin in preparation of the inevitable ninja stemming.

Location 

The giant dihedral directly above the start of Boneheads.

Protection 

Doubles from blue alien to BD .5, singles from BD .75 to 2. There are 5 bolts (8 if you do the direct start via Boneheads) to a 2-bolt rappel anchor. Optional small offset nuts or extra thin gear.


Photos of Rocky Horror Show Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruxin  Thanks for the stellar photo EJoe
Cruxin Thanks for the stellar photo EJoe

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By Travis H
From: SF, CA
Nov 23, 2015

Two ropes are needed to get down from the anchor. A 70m gets you to the big ledge 25 feet up, but not to the ground. I placed a BD #3 on this route. This climb is classic! Do it.
By mpech
Dec 29, 2016

a fun route-- lots of ninja stemming. It's nice to climb a route that isn't polished to death.

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