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Yosemite Crack Zone (Left)
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Rocky & Bullwinkle 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 407
Submitted By: e Dixon on Sep 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Rocky & Bullwinkle.

Description 

Climb out the tight-hands roof, then up a right-facing corner that varies in size. When the crack pinches, there is an old 1/4" bolt, some slabby moves on fragile rock get you to a two-bolt anchor.

Location 

Start about 100 feet left of Yosemite Crack.

Protection 

Standard East A rack - #3/#4 Camalot + one bolt.


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By Jason S.
From: Durango, Co
Sep 3, 2011

The top of this one is strange. I didn't see any features for "slabby moves", and ended up aiding. Anyone actually climb the last 7' of this one?
By e Dixon
From: Durango, Colorado
Sep 5, 2011

Climbed this a couple years back when it used to end at one bolt. I remember the moves at the top being pretty insecure and on marginal rock. I added a second bolt to the anchor. Pretty good route, but the soft finish takes away from the overall quality.
By Jason S.
From: Durango, Co
Sep 10, 2011

Thanks for the info and for adding a second bolt to the anchor. Looks like I need to try it again. I may end up unintentionally testing that antique... at least there is gear beneath it!

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