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A Dream of Wind Horses T 
Mountaineer's Route T 
Return to Forever T 
Rockwork Orange T 
Stage Show T 

Rockwork Orange 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 475', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Leslie Ackerman and Matt Dobbs (Oct 9, 2016), p1: Jesse Colangelo-Lillis, Matt Dobbs, Sarah Heerhartz (Jun 12, 2016)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 90
Submitted By: Matt D on Oct 12, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: The top half of p1, all of p2 and p3 are indicated...

Description 

A fun route that goes straight up the steep, featured rock in the middle of the RHS face (p2). The first 2 pitches offer clean rock. The short squeeze chimney on the third pitch has lichen that could be cleaned up with a wire brush and the of the route will improve with a little traffic. The route is capped with a very cool rock just right of the chimney that is fun to cast into images of monkey-faces or whatever your imagination prefers.

p1 (50m, 5.7 G) Climb the finger crack (5.7) to a shrub, then move left through a right-facing corner that leads to the slabs above. Continue up and slightly left, either: following the ramp and a left-facing vegetated corner (5.3G); or left of that, going straight up the blank slab (5.7R); or further left, following the flaring hand-crack (5.5). Belay in a "scoop" with a right-arching crack on the left.

p2 (50m, 5.8- PG13) Left of the belay, climb the right facing corner (good gear) that rises out of the “scoop” to a strange 2’ diameter hole at its top. Traverse right 10’ to featured black rock (delicate gear placements). Follow fun knobs and pockets up steeper rock (fixed protection at top) then climb the blank slab (5.8-) straight up on black rock past a fixed point of protection to the left arcing under-cling. Follow this until its possible to break out to a gear belay on the grassy ledge above the overlap.

p3 (45m, 5.7 PG) Follow the arete straight up a "pocket ladder" to the short slab and steep 10’ vertical section above. Pass this using the short squeeze chimney on the left (5.7). Belay in trees.

Location 

Approach:

From the point where the bushwack emerges on the RHS of the Pyramid south face, locate a 15m finger-crack on 60 degree rock, with a prominent right-facing corner and roof to the crack’s left. This is immediately right of the three island that divides the face, and is the same start as for “Return to Forever”.


Descent:
Descent: Make one diagonal, rope-stretching 60m rappel off trees, angling hard climber’s left, to reach the tree ledge that runs diagonally up the face and forms the descent for Stage Show/Mountaineer's Route.

Protection 

Standard single alpine rack (cams in the 0.5" range are useful for the delicate placement just below the steep section).


Photos of Rockwork Orange Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Satellite image showing routes on Pyramid south fa...
BETA PHOTO: Satellite image showing routes on Pyramid south fa...
Rock Climbing Photo: The cool monkey-face rock feature that crowns the ...
The cool monkey-face rock feature that crowns the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leslie A. on the arete of p3, Rockwork Orange.
Leslie A. on the arete of p3, Rockwork Orange.
Rock Climbing Photo: Leslie A. on P2 (slab above the steep face) of Roc...
Leslie A. on P2 (slab above the steep face) of Roc...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leslie A. starting up the pitch 1 finger crack of ...
Leslie A. starting up the pitch 1 finger crack of ...

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