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Rockshop Traverse 

Rockshop Traverse 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

Type:  Boulder, 200'
Original:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: unknown
Season: all
Page Views: 1,042
Submitted By: Dave Cummings on Mar 14, 2013

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The second seventy feet.


This is the huge traverse on almost all steep jugs for over 200 feet. It feels natural to climb it right to left, but left to right would also be fine. It is so fun and only 10 minutes from GJ!


From Whitewater, head west up Unaweep for a couple miles, park at the first big pullout on the right. The traverse is right next to the parking lot.



Photos of Rockshop Traverse Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Midway through the first crux.
Midway through the first crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: The first 70 feet.
The first 70 feet.
Rock Climbing Photo: The end of the 2nd crux.
The end of the 2nd crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of the second crux.
The start of the second crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: The start holds to The Rockshop Traverse, on the f...
The start holds to The Rockshop Traverse, on the f...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jared midway through the first and most difficult ...
Jared midway through the first and most difficult ...
Rock Climbing Photo: So fun.
So fun.

Comments on Rockshop Traverse Add Comment
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By Jared LaVacque
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Apr 27, 2013
rating: V7- 7A+

When featured in Rock and Ice years ago in an article by Luke Laeser and Ed Strang, this was rated V7. It actually starts left to right, as far left as possible butt dragging, at the top of a small dirt dune. The first moves are the hardest with smaller holds. If these are cut off and started farther left, the grade becomes easier. Then, their is a V3ish move transitioning from a higher traverse, to a lower section, then a pumpy transition V3-V4 before hitting the roof...then just hold on until the end.
By Dave Cummings
From: Grand Junction, CO
Aug 9, 2013

I just tried that left to right true start, those moves are def harder than anything else, I could see linking all of that being V7 for sure
By Matt Rauen
Sep 15, 2013

Pumpy long traverse and a great workout with challenging crux moves.
By Jared LaVacque
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Nov 2, 2013
rating: V7- 7A+

It definitely makes a difference if you start in the wrong place. Over the years, since this first appeared in R&I in the '90s, the start has become a little less obvious. The start is actually one of the three crux moves, as you have to drop from high to low in an off balance move. The next two cruxes come approximately 18 feet later and then about six feet before hitting the roof area.
By Jared LaVacque
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Nov 7, 2013
rating: V7- 7A+

I have posted a new pic of where the route starts. For clarification, there are definitely moves harder than V2, as you will realize as you climb it. Ultimately there are 3 technical cruxes, that come in the first 70 feet. The cruxes are as follows:

1) Eight feet from the start, which is on two half pad edges, then moves into a nice long horizontal shelf....then the business begins. Get your left hand over as far as possible, make a reach over to an arching crimp/sidepull, adjust your feet, make a longer reach out right to a sloping edge with thumb catch, move left hand to thee arching crimp-sidepull or mono, then bump right to the crimp/pull under the steepness, then adjust your feet, lock-up your core and bump down left and low to the block. Relax, the crux is now over. This crux is approximately V5 to V5+.
2) The second crux is about 15 feet from the end of the first, but is much easier. Bump down from the obvious rail, into two ticked edges and make a long reach right to another jug.
3) The start of the third crux is 12 feet from the roof and end right below it. Move into two slots, get a sidepull under the eave, bump your feet up high make a long reach right through two edges, reach to a jug, set your feet and brace to catch a left hand edge, then match what your right hand is on. Make a long reach to a crimp/sidepull in the 45 degree corner, cross through to the jug under the roof and start the third crux.
4) The last crux is hanging on for another 70 feet.

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