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Rocket Science  

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Chris Buckley
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 578
Submitted By: bradley white on Apr 5, 2010

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Climb up wall next to and past the large stacked fins (dangerous) in corner. Continue up wall to anchors.


go down the red ladder and traverse across and up to tree ledge.


Eye bolts and expansion bolts. Eleven all together. A long various technical sectioned climb to the rap anchor. I don't know exact length. If the anchor rings are aluminum make sure you rap. Don't lower off them.

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By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 7, 2010

this is the description i had posted under hinterlands... i mean nothing by posting it under this one other than the fact it might be helpful...

Weird as hell to find but the climbing is pretty cool once you get there.... I did find it to follow a weird line but it brings you to some neat moves on cool rock...

After the involved approach climb a chimney corner to the first bolt.... Make delicate moves out right... Avoiding the loose flakes to the left of the 2nd and 3rd bolts... From there climb balancy moves on good holds up the face before the route jogs right up a steep juggy face and finishes with a really cool mantel move just before the anchors...

Maybe a good route to seek out when the crowds descend on your "quiet out of the way crag"...

If you are hiking up in to the right side gully at Hinterlands walk to the right wall of the gully and look for a slightly beaten path to a scramble right... Climb down a ladder... Scramble up on to a ledge and anchor to a tree (or the glue in anchor the book mentions that i couldn't locate)

11 bolts to anchors.... the lower off rings are the thin aluminum type so they may need to be replaced with steel sometime soon...
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Aug 10, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great description Lee! The ladder was no longer there last summer but the approach isn't really sketchy. Just a little scramble. Just don't bring your full backpack.
If this nice 5.8 was not hidden around the corner, it would be a classic. The second half is just too cool of a climb even if it needs a brushing.

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