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Milky Way Wall
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Anti-Gravity S 
Close Encounters S 
Dark Matter S 
Deep Impact S 
E.V.A. S 
Gamma Rays in Sector C S 
Gemini S 
Houston, We Have a Problem S 
Look Ma...No Heatshield! S 
Milky Way S 
Right Stuff Variation, The S 
Right Stuff, The S 
Rocket Boys S 
Space Invaders S 
Space Pigs and their Armadillo Love Slaves S 
Wormhole S 

Rocket Boys 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tristan Higbee, Christian Burrell & Darren K
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 220
Submitted By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Mar 20, 2013

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Description 

Realized that I never added this one. Been there for a long time though...

Can be done as two pitches, but probably better as one. It depends which way you start. Starting on Gamma Rays is probably better as two; Right Stuff (with variation) is better as one. Bolted anchor on stance to belay as 2 pitches or rap off.

Best: Start on Right stuff and move right on obvious large flake to bolted stance. Up cool tricky headwall on smallish holds to cruxy move at the apex. Great rock in this section. Continue up slabby stuff with an occasional tricky move to anchor at top of the wall.

Really enjoyed working the headwall when we first bolted it back in our little golden era...


Protection 

bottom anchor + 9 lead bolts + top anchor (memory might not be perfect). Can walk off (some sharper rock up high) but easy rap with single rope.
If doing in one pitch, make sure you include enough draws for the lower section too.


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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Mar 20, 2013

As much as I liked the headwall, I only gave it two stars as it slabs out into easier stuff afterwards.

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