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Rockchuck 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman and Emily Reinsel 11/9/14
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 201
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Feb 24, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: The Lookout Tower, as seen from the Fay Canyon Tra...

Description 

This tackles the right-hand of the twin cracks splitting the west face of the Lookout Tower, which is perched on the east side of Fay Canyon. It offers a mixed bag of blue-collar crack climbing, with a healthy dose of the wideness.

The name, a colloquial term for the Yellow-Bellied Marmot of my native lands of Wyoming, stems more directly from the fact that on the ground up FA, I threw enough rocks to make Theodore Donald Kerabatsos proud!

Start up a shallow chimney with a tips-hands crack, it continues widening into a featured OW that in turn opens up to a chimney. Leave the security of the chimney on a hands/cupped hands crack in a right-facing corner that surmounts a bulge. Regroup at a stance, and wriggle up the final OW bulge with armbars and thighjams. This last bit is through a uniquely featured band in the Schnebly that is surprisingly riddled with pockets and delicate jugs, so it's easier than it appears. Scramble up a final slab to Burcham's summit anchors and belay.

Despite the amount of necessary trundling done on the FA for the sake of passage, there's still a good bit of loose stuff on this currently. I intend to return soon and do a thorough cleaning, which should yield a safer outing up this enjoyable line. I'll post up once this cleaning has occurred, but heads up if you seek this out in the meantime...

Location 

Refer to the description of Wash Off Tan for more approach beta, and the Google Earth image under the photos for that route.

This takes the right crack line on the west (up-canyon) face.

Summit rap from chains with a single 70m or two raps with a 60m off of intermediate anchor on Wash Off Tan.

Protection 

(1x).2,.75,4 (2x) .3,1,2,3,5,6 BD C4 sizes. Chain anchors.


Photos of Rockchuck Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rockchuck is the right-hand crack system on this f...
BETA PHOTO: Rockchuck is the right-hand crack system on this f...

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