Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
FA: | First 80': G. Stephens, A. Snider '86. Extension to the top: T. Souders, '86. |
Page Views: | 45,639 total · 214/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 3, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
Rock Wars is one of the finest routes in the Red and offers a little of everything but off-width. Start off on moderate climbing and stem, lock, and jam your way up for some moderate climbing to a tiny "roof" where the crack/flake stick out to the right and you are forced to move with it. High feet to the right and a positive finger lock/lieback (5.9) get you through the first crux. There were once anchors here where the inital FA was completed, but these have since been removed. A second set of anchors is now 40' above. Continue climbing into the left-leaning handcrack (5.10a) to only (formerly top) set of anchors at 10a.
Watch your rope length when you lower off, as the top anchor is up there for a 60M rope.
Watch your rope length when you lower off, as the top anchor is up there for a 60M rope.
Location
Walk right from the approach trail along the wall until you stand below a massive light-colored roof, a few hundred feet up. There is a large boulder under this, perhaps 15 meters back from the wall. A left-facing obtuse corner in orange/brown rock on the left has a hand-crack (Autumn) and a right-facing obtuse corner is on the right with a thinner crack and lighter rock (Rock Wars).
Protection
Gear to 3." The (formerly 1st pitch) initial crux gear is first-to-second knuckle sized cams. If you run all the way up to the top in a single pitch, the second and true crux (formerly second pitch) is on hand-to-wide hands gear.
The flake is thin in spots and stoppers have been known to pop out with flex in the rock, but cams are pretty secure. Place them a little deep just to be safe.
The flake is thin in spots and stoppers have been known to pop out with flex in the rock, but cams are pretty secure. Place them a little deep just to be safe.
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