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Rock Land

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chimney Crack T,TR 
Chimney Sweep TR 
Corner Route TR 
Fly, The TR 
Kermit Crack T,TR 
One Bolt TR 
Potato Head TR 
Secret of Foo TR 
Step Aside TR 
Step Up TR 
Tan Streak TR 
West Corner 

Rock Land Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 257'
Location: 35.34904, -120.8219 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,749
Administrators: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kristin McNamara on Jan 12, 2004
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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© Emily Jio climbing the Fly (5.8...


It's Saturday and there's a ton of people with you looking to climb for the first time! What to do, what to do? Are you a fan of top roping? Looking to rope solo? Looking for a first lead? Want to practice chimneys? Don't mind the wait? Rock Land is the spot. An outcropping of volcanic rock that is slippery as heck is awaiting you.

Getting There 

Park at main area and head up the hill. This is the first formation you see on the hill to the North. Follow trails leading up to it.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.9 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Rock Land

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Rock Land:
Corner Route   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Chimney Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Rock Land

Featured Route For Rock Land
Rock Climbing Photo: The Rockland area features a variety of climbs ran...

Tan Streak 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  California : Central Coast : ... : Rock Land
This route follows a direct line, straight up, a few feet left of the bolted "Corner Route". A little thin on the lower section but pretty easy from just above the second bolt on up....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Rock Land Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Rockland area features a variety of climbs ran...
BETA PHOTO: The Rockland area features a variety of climbs ran...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Sweetland on Corner Route(5.4) at Rockland on...
BETA PHOTO: Dave Sweetland on Corner Route(5.4) at Rockland on...
Rock Climbing Photo: This
Rock Climbing Photo: © London Gailey climbing at age 3...
© London Gailey climbing at age 3...
Rock Climbing Photo: A busy day at Rock Land.
A busy day at Rock Land.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jody Langford took this photo of me on the corner ...
BETA PHOTO: Jody Langford took this photo of me on the corner ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock Land - Updated Topo. Go to centralcoastclimbi...
BETA PHOTO: Rock Land - Updated Topo. Go to centralcoastclimbi...

Comments on Rock Land Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jody Langford
Jun 30, 2004
My only comment is that I personally like TR anchors back from the edge for safety reasons. Long runners don't bother me too much. I actually like not being right on the edge while setting up the anchor. You are right about one thing, those TR anchors were one big CF smorgasbord.

BTW, take a look at the new TR on The Beach at Wagon Caves, they are well back from the edge for a good reason...that rock with all the sand, etc., is slippery.
By Dave Bevan
Jul 1, 2004
If I remember correctly there is a really fun 5.11ish TR just to the right of chimney crack. I don't know if it ever had a name.
By Jody Langford
Jul 1, 2004
Dave...that route would be "Step Aside Direct". The beginning is so smooth I never could figure it out. I watched a 5.13 climber struggle on it and he never could figure out the lower half.

John...I have a Bosch Annihilator if you want to use it. Only have 3/8 bits though in case you were planning on 1/2 inchers.
By Dave Bevan
Jul 2, 2004
Thanks Jody.Yeah, I remember there were some pretty hard moves at the bottom. I guess it could be harder than .11, I just remember I really liked it.

I'm glad to see that climbers in the community are using a board like this to try and come to consensus on issues such as anchor placement in this area. It obviously doesn't reach everyone, but it's a good start and the more it gets used, the more people will find there way here.
By Kristin McNamara
From: SLO, CA
Jul 18, 2004
Vickie Garagliano sent me this email:

_ I have heard the name "Thin Ice" used for the_ 5.11a/b climb between_ Chimney Crack and Step Aside at Cabrillo's_ Rockland area. The big hole_ on the right is off line and has been referred_ to as a sucker hold._ This information is handed-down and has not_ been confirmed.
By Kristin McNamara
From: SLO, CA
Jul 18, 2004
Regarding the anchor reorganization:

I personally think John did a decent job with reorganizing the anchors. Since this area is a popular TR area, esp. for beginners, I can see the argument about the bolts being away from the edge - BUT, the anchors where they are now are closer to what I consider accepted practice for anchors - no runners required, just safety consciousness. An extra set of anchors would help the clusterfuck that occurs there, especially when groups like Poly Escapes bring people out there, but is it ethical to do that? I guess that's what this forum continually asks, though, eh?
By Theron Moses
Jul 18, 2004
Why would it be "unethical" to put in an extra set of anchors. It would alleviate crowding, make the climbing safer, and considerably reduce the suck factor of setting up the anchors on top. Rockland has a history of being a "begginers" area. So why not continue to keep it safe and easy?

I personally like the new anchors for Step Aside. The problem is now I need something for the top of Kermit Crack. What to do?

The anchors for Chimney Crack are awesome once they are set but it is a total pain getting them to that point. A little farther back and use extension slings might be a better idea.

The West Corner, Potato Head, & The Fly desperately need their anchors reorganized. The two bolts that are there are set up all wrong.

I have used Rockland for large groups in the past. One more set of anchors would be welcome in my opinion.
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Jul 14, 2009
Wolfgang Leeb and I climbed that "Step Aside" thing sometime in the early 90s. We did the hardest line we could sort out. Since it wasn't in the book Wolfie thought it hadn't been climbed. I figured it had. I don't remember much about it except that he wanted to call it Punks in the Gym because the rock was like Gullich's route at Arapiles. Of course, it was 11-something instead of 5.14 and about 25' tall. Funny to think of this place as popular because it certainly wasn't at the time. Cool rock and setting though, so it makes sense.

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