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Rock Jungle 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 450'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kevin Worrall, et all
Page Views: 2,274
Submitted By: SCherry on Feb 23, 2011

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  • Nesting falcons reported, 2012 through 2015 MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    Rock Jungle is a long, mostly clean, 5.10 tour of the left side of the Main Wall at Eagle Peak. While it has some "jungle pitches" down low, up higher the rock gets cleaner and offers some really great, exposed, and well protected 5.10 pitches that are quite memorable.

    Pitch 1: 5.9. Clip bolts up the finger of rock that rises from the cactus covered terrace, aiming for a large corner on the left. At the top of the finger feature move left through some vegetation to a bolted belay on the left wall of the corner. Look carefully, because the bolted anchors are hard to see. 100 feet.

    Pitch 2: 10a. Climb up the corner and right out when the wall steepens off the belay (crux). Establish here and negotiate another crux getting established back into the corner again. Follow this corner all the way up, past some bushes again, and out to a large ledge system. Traverse right on the ledge for about 25 feet to the second of 2 bolted anchor stations. 100 feet.

    Pitch 3: 10b, "The Crack Pitch". From the belay climb up, and clip one bolt before moving right into the grassy corner (weird 10a crux). Climb up the grassy corner (remember its a jungle) to the base of an obvious crack splitting a bulge. Jam the crack (10b crux) and at its end traverse right to good holds. Clip a high last bolt and keep moving right on jugs to an exposed belay ledge on a point of rock. 75 feet.

    Pitch 4; 10a, "The Hollow Flakes". Step across from the exposed belay, clip a bolt, and move around the arete into the base of a corner below a large roof (straight up from the belay is the 10c/d 4th pitch of "Southwest Face"). From here climb up the right side of the corner on amazing hollow flakes until you can escape out the right side of the roof to a stance. From this stance the route finding is a bit tricky. You will be looking at 2 obvious, short aretes of rock. The next bolt is at the top of the left arete, but you want to layback up the right arete, clip the bolt, and traverse left out on a slab above the roof. One final 5.8 move guards the anchors just up over a small bulge with good holds. 60 feet.

    Pitch 5: 5.8. From the belay move up and left and follow low 5th class moves for about 40 feet. The final 30-40 feet steepens to nice 5.8 slab climbing to the top of the wall and a large ledge of rock below the terra firma. The anchors are located on a right facing block and have quick links for rappeling. 80 feet.

    Location 

    From Lunch Rock descend to the low point of the Main Wall. From here continue up and left on a terrace covered in cactus that rises from the base. Follow this terrace up about 200 feet passing the obvious clean finger cracks of Scylla and Charybdis high on the main face. After this clean section of rock there is a large gully that touches down on the terrace. Rock Jungle begins on an obvious finger of rock on the left side of the gully, just right of a cleaner low wall that contains a couple of bolted lines. Rock Jungle shares its start with the route "Ivory Tower".

    Protection 

    15 quick draws


    Comments on Rock Jungle Add Comment
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    By SCherry
    From: San Diego, CA
    Feb 20, 2012

    Been climbing out in this area the last few weekends. Rock Jungle is pretty overgrown this season. Its hard to even see where the second pitch goes from the ground.

    Also someone left a rope fixed to the first pitch anchor that had obviously been cut. If you want your rope back, let me know. We rescued it and hiked it out.
    By Keri B
    Sep 23, 2014

    You can also do P4 as a chimney instead of laybacking, although it is somewhat awkward. Also pitches are all 30m or less, so could definitely be linked with a 70m rope if you bring enough quickdraws.
    By Adam T.
    From: San Diego, CA
    Jan 2, 2015

    Peregrine falcons have a nest above the 2nd pitch belay. I came across them this month (January) so it looks like they might be permanent residents.
    By Alex Fletcher
    From: San Clemente, CA
    Sep 28, 2016

    Does this route start in the very far corner on the right wall just before where the wall takes a 90 degree turn left? with a cactus directly at the first ground belay stance and fall zone? My partner and I went out here to climb this and aren't entirely sure if we were on the correct route. I'm usually a pretty solid 5.10 climber (with a handful of 11's) though definitely not used to the near polished and often pretty blank walls down in San Diego.

    Whatever it was we hopped on I had to bail on the second pitch which was extremely disappointing and lead to us having to hike our exhausted bodies back up the vanishing trails back to the very top of the highest peak where we had made the (poor) decision to stash our packs. Certainly wish we had put them closer to the low point that we ended up descending to initially get to the base of the wall.

    I think a mistake I certainly made was not heading for the corner as much as I should have on the second pitch instead choosing a splitting bolt line up to the right from the first pitch anchor.

    On what we did climb, there was a ton of choss. Rock quality was questionable at best. I believe this is due to the lack of traffic and also the lichen growing on many parts of the rock. I found a ton of things to be featureless and polished. Anywhere that had even the slightest bit of texture or popped out as a good foot hold was just as likely to crumble under even minimal weighting.
    By SCherry
    From: San Diego, CA
    Sep 29, 2016

    Hey Alex,

    I think you were way off from the correct start of the route (don't worry you're not the only one). Its on the left wall (meaning left of Cruise Line), and starts up off the cactus covered ledge to the left of the very obvious splitter cracks of Scylla and Charibdis. In re-reading my detailed description of how to find the start, I think its pretty accurate.

    Sounds to me like you started a ways left (if you meant the left wall, not right wall) and were in the big corner at the back of the cactus ledge (we always called this the Sanctuary Corridor). There are some new 5.10 routes over there on the right side of the corner that haven't seen much action since they aren't in the guide or on MP. The main route on the left side of the big corner is an 11+ with a pretty chossy first pitch.

    It is tricky to find the start of Rock Jungle (and the whole route for that matter). Do you have the ACSD Topo guide? Its pretty helpful in finding the routes out at Eagle Peak.

    Direct message me if you have any other questions.