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Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Center Cliff Rap Line" T 
"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T 
Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R)  T 
Bullit - with Alternate Slab Start T 
Life by the Numbers T 
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers  T 
North (right) End Descent Gully T 
Rapier T 
Rock Candy T 
Saber T 
Saber Rattler  T 
Scepter  T 
Sea of Green  T 
Sea of Green Direct Start T 
Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 
South (Left) Descent Gully T 
Steve's Twilight T 
Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route)  T 
When the Dog Bites  T 

Rock Candy 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 180', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ben Miller and John Halupowski: P1 October 7 P2 November 6, 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 738
Submitted By: b miller on Nov 8, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Ben Miller on the FA of Rock Candy P2

Description 

Two pitches of nice face climbing.

P1: Climb up the Sea of Green initial corner and clip the bolt. Move up and right, following a crescent shaped line. Clip five more bolts along the way. Belay at two bolts with rap rings on the ledge atop the first Sea of Green crack. 90 feet.

P2: Climb straight up the face above you. (The upper SOG crack looms to the right). Surmount a bulge after clipping the fifth and last bolt. Follow easier ground, trending left to a flake with a two bolt belay, also with rap rings. 90 feet.

"P3" : Finish up moderate slab [80ft], protecting at the left end of the six inch overlap, and up to two bolts with rappel rings, (the summit anchor/belay for the Center Rap Line / Sea of Green). (Or rappel to the ground.)

Location 

Find the base of Sea of Green. (Described elsewhere on this site). It starts where the second wave of slab touches the ground appx 75 feet from the base of the north descent trail. There is a conifer tree with trimmed branches, look for the first bolt on the overlap appx 25 feet up.

Protection 

P1: 6 3/8" bolts
P2: 5 3/8" bolts, then small and medium cracks take pro on upper 40 feet.

Descent: You can now rappel this line from the summit to the ground utilizing fixed rappel rings. Start with the two rappel ring bolts that comprise the top belay for Sea of Green. (To reach these bolts from the top you are exposed to the cliff edge while down climbing easy slab for approximately 30 feet. As an alternative, you can rappel from the trees, approximately 40 feet to reach the bolts.) Two 60 meter ropes--two rappels. One sixty meter rope--three rappels.


Photos of Rock Candy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben on FA of P1 at 6th bolt
BETA PHOTO: Ben on FA of P1 at 6th bolt
Rock Climbing Photo: "Saber Slab": "Sea of Green" (...
BETA PHOTO: "Saber Slab": "Sea of Green" (...

Comments on Rock Candy Add Comment
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By John Halupowski
From: Intervale, N.H.
Nov 8, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Smooooth leads Ben!
By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
Nov 12, 2015
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

Very Nice! Great "rough" rock.

The grade of the move over the top bolt may be height-dependent. There's easier climbing (5.7 +/-?) past this bolt about 3 ft to its left.
By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
Sep 26, 2016
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

Climbed P2 again today (9/26/16) as finish for "Steve's Twilight" and think you mean crux is "between the 3rd and 4th bolts [not "2nd & 3rd"] [really quite thin].
Right of B#5 is definitely height-dependent: reaching the finger incuts. (just ask Sheila, 5 ft 4-inches)

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