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Rock Garden Valley - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beck's Bet T 
Candyman TR 
Double Dogleg T 
Euthyphro T 
Fortune Cookie T 
Griffin, The T 
Holly Device T 
Lewd and Lascivious Conduct T 
MZM (Maria Zink Memorial) T 
Personal Space TR 
Pop Rocks T 
Rock Candy T 
Rock Dog Candy Leg TR 
Rock-a-Lot T 
Silent But Deadly T 
Smithereens T 
Spitwad T 
Split Personality T 
Top of the Pops T 
Unknown T 
Yi T 
Young Lust T 

Rock Candy 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ed Kaufer and Keith Cunning, 1979
Page Views: 5,843
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

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Draws and aliens and wires, all you need.


The climb can be started directly under the first bolt via a large undercling flake (5.10), but the normal start is about 10' to the left, and about halfway to the start of Rock-a-Lot. Once above the flake a thin horizontal crack provides protection before the first bolt. Easy moves lead up and left to the second bolt where the angle steepens and a thin seam starts (microwires handy here). Pull some thin moves (crux) and then hit a finger crack which leans to the right higher before petering out below the top. Two more bolts protect fun, positive edges which lead right to the top. Bolted anchor on top with a rap from anchors atop Split Personality.

High quality rock, fun moves and the continuous nature of the climbing make this the standout route of the area and one easily led by climbers solid at the grade. Four stars out of five.


This route is located on the attractive face left of an obvious zig-zag crack system (Double Dogleg) on the furthest right portion of the Shorter Wall.


4 bolts (3/8"), pro to 1.5" (microwires can be useful for the crux section), bolted anchor on top (3/8").

Photos of Rock Candy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Left climber is on "Lewd and Lascivious Condu...
Left climber is on "Lewd and Lascivious Condu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Good climb!
Good climb!
Rock Climbing Photo: Greg benton down low on the route. submitted by 5....
Greg benton down low on the route. submitted by 5....
Rock Climbing Photo: rock candy.
rock candy.
Rock Climbing Photo: rock candy
rock candy

Comments on Rock Candy Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 24, 2017
By Steve Powell
Apr 29, 2003

another fun route in this area.
By Woody Stark
May 20, 2004

I feel 5.9 is a little light for this route. It felt more like 10a to me. It's a fine route, and I think I'll do it again, possibly on a midwinter day when it's snowing and the top-ropers are all huddled in their cribs sucking on their binkies.
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Jan 29, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Excellent quality route, keeps you thinking the whole way. 5.10a IMHO.
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 14, 2005

Pretty stiff for a nine, but a couple of nice moves that will make you think.
By Scott Edlin
From: boulder, co
Apr 12, 2006

very fun for a toprope. might be a bit heady for a lead. sustained, long, and continuous.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 25, 2006

The best route on the wall IMO.
By Colin Parker
From: Idyllwild, CA
May 19, 2009

I agree, this was our favorite when we stopped by. Definitely deserves the 3 stars in the Vogel guide, perhaps more?
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Jun 15, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Bloody 'ell Chris "easily led by climbers solid at the grade"? I must be getting old coz' this one gave me heck of time yesterday (6/13/09).
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Feb 18, 2010

All of 5.9 and heady. Double C3's are useful. One of my favorites in the park.
By Stormeh
Apr 18, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

I would say all of 10a, and quite serious as well. When compared to Loose Lady, you have to call this thing 10a, and the pro is worse as well. Very sustained. Great route!
By Vitaliy
Nov 1, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The direct start is a strenuous under-cling to a reachy tiny hold with very slippery foot holds. I tried it on TR and failed numerous times, Dave Mayville [too-strong] cruised right through the direct start and said it was just a 10d :)
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Yeah - if you lead this from the left side like me, don't forget to clip the first bolt like I did. Was pretty sketched out on a #00 master cam (at the hand traverse before going up) and a sketchy nut before arriving at the second bolt and clipping it. Makes my hands sweat thinking about it... If you clip the first bolt, it probably isn't as rough of a lead mentally. This one was all mental for me, although the movement did get a little thin for a while.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 10, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

quite good climbing, but probably better as a TR for most who would visit the area. the first bolt is WAY off to the right of the natural line, so far that i probably would gun for the 2nd bolt, but be in groundfall terrain pretty quick.

i watched a dude deck (twice!) on this route trying to get to the first bolt. no thanks.
By David S.
From: San Francisco, CA
May 25, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Did this on TR yesterday. Started up from the right of the undercling, rather than to the left, which everyone else seems to suggest. It was a neat variation, and you can get some solid, but thin, feet on the tiny rail there.

I'd call this a 5.10a anywhere else, but when in Rome...
By Stone Adventures
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jan 17, 2016

Did the direct start, pretty sketch. Harder than most of the 10A's I have done in the park. Scary runouts. Awesome route though!
By Howard
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Oct 17, 2016

I agree with David S. It's close enough to being direct to start from just to the right of directly below and the climbing makes perfect sense when viewed from there. Above all, it follows the bolted line well.
By Mike Womack
From: Los Angeles, CA
Apr 24, 2017

This is a must do if in the area. I used a BD .3 and .4 and peanuts and was able to sew it up pretty well. Direct start was fun yet thuggy unlike the delicate climbing above.

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