REI Community
Upper Blacktail Butte
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blitzkrieg S 
Crackin' the Cherry S 
Goldstein S 
Graceland S 
Muy Macho S 
Power Trip S 
Red Chili S 
Rock Candy Nugget S 
Running Down a Dream S 
Tec DC-9 S 
Wild at Heart S 
Winston S 

Rock Candy Nugget 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Beyer
Page Views: 1,338
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on May 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


A nice nugget of good stone on an otherwise pretty chossy chunk of rock. A couple of thin moves getting to the first bolt, then fun limestone face climbing afterwards. A good warmup. Not quite as good as Red Chili, but almost. Watch a "x"ed loose block at the top.
The photo in Wes Gooch's guidebook shows the line going slightly left of where it actually does. Start just right of a black waterstreakish section of rock.


Walk left from Power Trip on a trail. In about 50-75 yds, you'll come to another cliff. This is the second bolted route from the right.


5 bolts, two-bolt anchor w/ chains.

Comments on Rock Candy Nugget Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Stayner
From: Wymont Kingdom
May 19, 2008

IMO, this route is overrated. I would give it 9+/10a, but since I'm adding it, I'll use the guidebook rating of 10b.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jul 24, 2008

I was a little confused as to the location of this route as well but it sounds like Nick is describing what we climbed. I thought perhaps we were doing a different climb than Rock Candy Nugget and thought it was 5.9ish but my wife, who is much shorter, thought it was 10-ish, which might be part of the cause for the discrepancy in the grade. In the Gooch guide, it is listed as having 6 bolts, adding to my confusion.

Anyone know what route is to the right? And, what is the next route to the left?
By Daniel Nelson
From: Jackson, WY
Aug 26, 2014

Fantastic warm up. Big holds throughout. 10a if you've climbed it before, but some big holds that are hidden and a mandatory traverse to the second bolt can make it a tricky onsight for the 5.10 leader. Best 5.10 (although limited competition) at BTB.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About