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Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
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Rock and Roll Star 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FA 1977, Eric Rhicard, Morris Hershoff, John Deladucca
Page Views: 728
Submitted By: Chris Duca on May 30, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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A very obvious, and deceptively hard (read: awkward!) finger crack on the same terrace that "Roaches on the Wall" is found.

The business is right off the deck. Battle the finger crack through a somewhat committing and hard to protect (blind placements) section to a good rest on jugs in a horizontal 35' up. Once you're deflamed, work up a short corner (right-facing) then angle right across the face to meet up with the pleasant crack finish of "Roaches".

A great route, and well worth the effort.


The obvious finger crack at the top of the approach trail to the "Roaches on the Wall" terrace.


A standard rack up to a #2 Camalot.

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By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Apr 24, 2014

This route is just plain hard, right from the very first move...and it's in-your-face-STEEP!
By Nick Weinberg
From: Lyme, NH
Aug 6, 2014

This route is a real M-F'er!!! Tricky and strenuous to place gear! If you are feeling overly confident after climbing some of the other 10's on the cliff, go over and get on this for some self-flagellation!!!
By ryan ciccone
Aug 6, 2016

friend was practicing clean aid and blocked all my jams lol.. but this route is something else its pretty diverse to climb. from finger cracks to little face at the top. but all just slaps you stupid hard when you step on it, small break mid way and then its right back in your face to the end

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