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Loch Vale Gorge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brown Smear? T 
Crystal Meth T 
Free Strike Zone T 
Hydrogen Bondage 
Icy Chim T 
L of Lochluster T 
Lochluster T 
M5? hand crack T 
Mixed Feelings T 
Mixed Left of Mo Flo (aka "Big Girl Pants") T 
Mo' Flo' Than Go T 
Pointlessness T 
R of Lochluster TR 
Replicant (unnamed) TR 
Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) T 
Rock, Wood, Ice T 

Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) 

WI5+ M6+ R

Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice
Original: WI5+ M6+ R [details]
FA: unknown visionary
Season: late fall, winter
Page Views: 1,118
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Dec 20, 2005

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Worked this route recently, calling it M6 WI5+(AKA...


This is a fun TR line on the right side of the Loch Vale Gorge area. In some ways, it is reminiscent of Mixed Feelings.... When the choice lines are taken & you are itching for a pump, hang a TR & enjoy!

This line has probably been done before based upon the scratches & ease of access; however, no notation of it exists in the old J. Roberts' guide, C. Burns' guide, or either Gillett's guides. So, if you named or rated it previously, our apologies & we can change the info.

You can find this line just left of Rock, Wood, Ice & Icy Chim and starts below the overhang sporting a hanging icicle. Hike the trail in from Glacier Gorge & go right when you get to the cliff. Locate a thin corner with big flakes traversing right to the ice above the log start to Rock, Wood, Ice.

Get started up a thin corner off a block with a good right tool placement with a left tool stack on top. Reach up for the sloping ledge (crux), match, go for a higher edge, fire a leg up, get stable, move up to a great bucket, then find excellent holds traversing right towards the ice. Get set high & move right onto the thin ice. Try to get depumped on the now vertical ice and carefully go to the top. 2 trees with slings & biners may be rappelled or traverse left to the 2 bolt anchor.


Not much.

Toprope Protection 

Slings off 2 trees above, directional 13cm ice screw.

Photos of Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jugs.
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting back to vertical.
Getting back to vertical.
Rock Climbing Photo: Believe it or not, the crux.
Believe it or not, the crux.

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