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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: D. Bloom, 2002
Page Views: 7,025
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 1, 2004

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Good view of the route

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This climb is right at the end of the approach trail. There is a slot here formed by a right and left facing corner. The right facing corner (left climb), is Rochambeau; the left facing corner (right climb) is Fuzz.

The first pitch is a good warmup with solid jams and many ledges for the feet.


Mostly hands.

Photos of Rochambeau Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This was the first climb at Indian.  Nice route an...
This was the first climb at Indian. Nice route an...
Rock Climbing Photo: BY leading on a nice spring day.
BY leading on a nice spring day.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jimmy warming up on the first pitch of Rochambeau
Jimmy warming up on the first pitch of Rochambeau

Comments on Rochambeau Add Comment
Show which comments
By Vince MacMillan
From: Dolores, CO
Feb 6, 2006

Take note: the top 35 feet of this is an entirely detached flake hinged on an 8 inch wide ledge. Body weight certainly isn't pulling it off, but you don't need a PhD in Gravitational Geology (er, something) to see that this thing is coming down on its own and soon (geologically speaking).
By Braxtron
From: ...
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Fun climbing that is easier than it looks from the ground. There is a large chockstone wedged in the crack that won't be there forever. It's not too loose yet (as of 04/08).
By El-Cisco
From: Denver, Colorado
Oct 27, 2008

Great climb, it would be a great first lead. It has a lot of rests. Good features outside the crack. It takes gear well.
By Jason Shatek
Dec 3, 2008

Its not a gimme climb, you still have to motor in some spots. The climb is pretty good but it's not a very asthetic line and it was kinda sandy in there. Most of the rests are pretty good.
By Floater Bloom
From: Flagstaff AZ
Feb 16, 2011

FA - D. Bloom 2002
By slim
Oct 25, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

the start was surprisingly difficult for the grade. this would be a good intro desert lead as there are a lot of good stances to work with. noted vince's point above. the rock sounds solid, but doesn't have much support. wouldn't be surprised to find this route 'missing' in the future.
By John Braun
From: Hendersonville, NC
Nov 28, 2011

There's a loose block about 8 feet up - not sure if it is what the previous poster was talking about. It's got an X on it. Easy to get around it, though.
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 23, 2014

Climbed the 2nd pitch of this (5.11) and took it to the rim. I would recommend bringing a #4 and #5 (or maybe a #6 instead?) for the 10 feet of wide slot (don't worry there are some face holds, so no heinous offwidthing required) and a blue tcu for right after. Most of the 2nd pitch is quite good but it was a bit sandy when I did it. I continued to the top and belayed off a juniper in one monster pitch that included pretty easy but tiring groveling up poor rock at the rim. It would be a really nice pitch if someone put anchors at the end of the small roof. In the meantime rap the Host in 3 raps with a 60 (and new webbing...), but watch out because the first station is hanging and around a corner. A 70 will not reach from the rap tree on the rim to the top of the Host without about 10 feet of sketchy downclimbing.

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