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Rocco's Demise 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Rocco Spina 1990
Season: When Dry
Page Views: 152
Submitted By: philfell on Jun 27, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure at Black Wall-Lifted 2016 MORE INFO >>>


Short slab climb, with only one bolt. Probably doesn't get climbed as much as it should because it only having one bolt and being runout to the anchors, a groundfall is possible if falling while clipping the anchors.

With this said don't let that stop you from leading this climb. It is safe up to and clipping the first bolt. Then the crux comes while you are still below the bolt, so a fall at the crux is very safe. Some thin slabs moves get your feet just past the bolt. From there it is a jug haul to the anchors.

If you are able to do the crux clean the run to the anchors should be a walk in the park. Overall a good climb that should probably be climbed more.


50 feet right of Jelleyroll Arch Look for one bolt in the red face with some old open shuts at top for the anchor


one quick draw

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By Kevin Hecka
From: Speed of Light
Nov 5, 2012

If you can lead Shortcake, Creampuff and can do this route; a little greasy, and a bit heady, but it's all there.
By Shaun Johnson
Aug 23, 2016

Very cool, short route.

My girlfriend, who was belaying me, said "[I] would have decked if I botched the move before the jug."

I somehow did not notice this on my onsight.....

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