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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Despite being a bit dirty, this climb is highly enjoyable.
Pitch 1 - 5.8 PG-13 100 feet. Starting on the north side of the tower, grovel up an obvious wide chimney. The chimney turns right and narrows into a squeeze chimney. Continue upwards as the squeeze chimney becomes a stem between two towers.
Just when the route doesn't seem obvious, do a dubious traverse along the west face of the tower and belay at a small ledge with a wide crack.
Pitch 2 - 5.8 20 feet. Climb up the wide crack, only a few moves, to the summit hoodoo. An exciting mantel leads to the summit. The mantel must be down-climbed.
Descent Rappel 115 feet, webbing slung around a hoodoo for an anchor, down the west side of the tower. Be observant of the rope pull as there is a large crack system which would love to eat a rope.
Long pants and shirt. A single rack with a BD #4 and #5.
25 feet of webbing will be needed if replacing the rappel anchor.
The traverse at the end of pitch 1. The Citadel an...