This route might be the best route on the "Circus Wall" section of the Island In the Sky, and at the very least makes a great warm-up for the longer routes on Aftershock Wall. The route is 2 pitches, but is easily lead as a single 50 M pitch. Approach Circus Wall via the Pioneer Names Trail and stop at the slab at the base of the names cave.
P1: (30M, 5.10b) "Roar Of the Greasepaint" scrambles up into the Names cave and then moves out it's top left edge (5.6, S) to clip a single pin before pulling a heady 5.9 move to get to the second pin. From there the route ascends up and right past Army drilled angles on good crimps and slopes toward a chain anchor. The first pitch is ~80' of technical climbing, with the crux perhaps 2/3 of the way up. Upon reaching the chains, the climber can (should!) continue one of 2 options for Pitch 2:
P2a: (20M, 5.9-) From the belay atop P1, climb up and left past 4 or 5 pins and then up (spaced more widely than P1, but just fine versus the grade of this pitch) and at last minute back right to a second chain-anchor above a sloping ledge. If you have continued directly without stopping on P1's anchor (better that way) do not clip the chains, and use a long draw on the last bolt of P1 & the first bolt of P2 to avoid the zig-zag-drag blues.
P2b: (20M, 5.9+) From the belay atop of P1, climb up and right past a single drilled angle to reach an early crux (9+) on some insecure holds. Pass this and continue directly up on easier moves to reach the same anchor as per P2a. This variation is harder than the other only at the crux and does produce less drag that P2a if all done as a single continuous pitch.
To descend rap with 2 single rope raps (60M works) of with a single double-rope rap. Since there are variations of P2, we did the climb as a single pitch, then rapped to the Anchor on P1 and did the variation independently before rapping the the base.
The route is rated 10a in the books published, but my partner and I both found it to have a harder crux move on the first pitch (10b or 10c). Then again, we were neither warmed up nor 'dialed in' to the area.
A rack of Draws- 10 if breaking this into 2 pitches, 14+ 2 long slings if you want to run them together.
Worried about taking a fall with belayer in cave s...
Running both pitches together.
Craig follows the first pitch
BETA PHOTO: Alternate belay station. Skips the slabby start an...
Joseffa Meir follows 'Roar Of the Greasepaint' a c...
Tony Bubb starts up 'Roar Of the Greasepaint (10a)...
Ending pitch 1. Photo Keith Beisner
From: Steamboat Springs, CO
Apr 18, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
P1 (10a)is significantly more interesting and committing than P1 (10a)on Living on the Edge. It involves some slab skill and the willingness to take a little pendulum swing if you screw up moving right after (I think) bolt #3.I felt more comfortable leading P2 on Living On the Edge and even though I have climbed may harder routes will admit to a sense of relief upon reaching the anchors cleanly.
By L. Hamilton
Mar 22, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Our 70m rope worked fine to climb in one pitch, then lower off the top anchors. Watch out if yours is shorter, though.
This pitch is definitely 5.10, with a lot of good moves.
By Hendo Henderson
From: Denver, CO
Nov 6, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Would totally have to agree with Teleman in the above comment. The first pitch (a 5.10a) is WAY tougher than Living on the edge. Warm up on Living On the Edge (1st pitch), and if you did well on that, try this next (I did it the opposite). The reason it is harder. More slab (that's sandy), less features to choose from for each crux (there's multiple cruxes), a couple tough clipping stances and really no rests (1st pitch of Living there's a lot of great rests). So for a 5.10a, it was more scary than fun! That's why it gets 2 stars.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Jul 29, 2015
One of the all-time great route names. Who cares what it means. Right up there with Bleach Monkey Sump Pump and Horizontal Dentist Feather.