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Roadside Attraction
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Roadside Attraction T,TR 

Roadside Attraction 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Heinrich The Squirrel?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 378
Submitted By: Eli on Nov 2, 2015

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The line

Courtesy MORE INFO >>>


A mighty enjoyable romp up the most prominent part of the wall. Starting from the base look up at the buttress/blunt arete and climb that, mostly staying to the right side and on the solid rock until you are above the cut section, then work the arete to the evergreen above, sling it for an anchor and lower off. If there is any interest I'll leave some webbing and booty biners up there soon.

On the way up I was able to put in six pieces, and probably could have fit more if I'd have dug out more placements, the rock is solid and the climbing is very fun. The first piece is about 15 feet up.


As you walk down the trail by the road, this is the wall you walk by and say "I wonder when someone is going to be stupid enough to climb this".


Small nuts, full set of tricams from black to blue. Protection is tricky, but fully G rated if you stop to look for it.

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By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Nov 3, 2015

If you haven't already, you should consider talking with the RCA about this area, specifically regarding potential environmental concerns as well as the moratorium. Cool rock for sure.
By S. Neoh
Nov 3, 2015

I concur with above.
Not to mention it might be "too close" to Buffalo Road for the locals liking.
I got a chuckle form the name, having just taken a trip to RRG. Cute.
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Nov 3, 2015

As far as it being too close to buffalo road and talking to the RCA, the way I look at it is that there should probably never be bolts or permanent anchors put on it (the forest service wouldn't like that either). It is my understanding that the moratorium really only has to do with bolts and squeeze job routes. Environmentally this area has been trashed by heavy machinery, so I really can't see an issue there either. It being that it is just a chunk of rock that happens to take gear, and I have no intention of installing permanent hardware on it, I think it will be okay.
If it needs to be taken down by all means do so, though I think that would be even more silly than the route existing.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 12, 2015

Sorry I'm late to this party. And I hate to be that guy but, I did climb much of the line you are referring to many years ago though it used to be solid rock all the way until they came and chipped it all to hell (grumble grumble).I decided not to report it cause I didn't think I should encourage other people to climb right off the road, maybe the trail makes it a better place to climb? I don't know. Anyway, glad you are out adventuring :)
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Nov 12, 2015

Lee, is this what you're talking about (see photo)? I'll definitely change the FA info. The route we did isn't chipped or anything, it stays to the right of the all the damage.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 12, 2015

Oh cool, nope my line was to the left of that through the crack. I wasn't at all concerned about FA credit just saying that I had chosen not to report climbing on the cliff cause I didn't think the locals would like it... Though as I said the trail might make my old point moot... now we both have lines to do haha
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Nov 13, 2015

I mean it is a silly route, I wasn't too concerned either way. It sucks that they ruined the rest of the cliff band, but the trail is great so I'm not complaining even a little bit.
By Tom Bowker
From: somewhere in the USA
Nov 16, 2015

This was climbed back in the late 80's
By ward smith
Jun 27, 2016

And I remember someone else reporting it as a FA back in the late 90s. I never put it on the book because climbing there will cause problems.

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