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Roadside Attraction 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: P. Murdock, 19 July 2014 (5.10 C1) FFA: Alex Honnold (onsight solo), Ted Hesser, Maury Birdwell, 2015
Season: Dry
Page Views: 285
Submitted By: Pat M on Jul 21, 2014

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Dogging a bit on the FA with the peanut gallery in...

Description 

Somebody needs to come here and visit who has more thin-tips skills than me. This right-leaning finger crack is incredible, but starts off with about 12 feet of #0-1 TCU sized crack that I just don't have the skills to free. I'm guessing it will go free at solid 5.12 thin crack. After that, the crack expands to perfect fingers thru tight hands as you get higher. The angle also eases off slightly in the middle then gets vertical again at the top. The business ends at a small ledge, with another 10 feet of easy hands on a slab to the summit. Anchor is 10 feet left of the top of the crack to aid cleaning.

Location 

Left side of taller rock (Pedra Escrita 'proper') as approached from village. Obvious right leaning finger crack visible from the road. You cannot miss it.

Protection 

0 TCU or similar
Doubles #1 TCU - # 2 Camelot, with emphasis on #3 TCU and 0.5-0.75 Camelot.
2-bolt belay anchor (not suitable for toprope without extra long webbing).


Photos of Roadside Attraction Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruising the tight hands section near the top...
Cruising the tight hands section near the top...

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By MauryB
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 15, 2015

FFA: Alex Honnold (onsight solo), Ted Hesser, Maury Birdwell. 5.11b/c
Some committing and thin opening moves to get established on the slabbier part of the wall. Gets easier the higher you go!

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