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7 - Roadside Attraction
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Roadside Attraction TR 

Roadside Attraction 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FA: Werner Braun, Dale Bard, Ron Kauk. First Free Solo: Scott Cosgrove (mid 1980s)
Page Views: 1,085
Submitted By: Osprey Overhang on Mar 7, 2010  with updates from Russ Walling

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At the roof move.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A great workout. Stem up the increasingly difficult corner (.11d) until you reach the bottom of a roof. Use a hold under the roof to help you stem out to the lip. Turn the lip, passing a bolt. Then ringlock and tight hand jam (.12a) your way up a steep splitter crack to the top.

Location 

This is the obvious crack in the middle of the cliff.

Protection 

Set up a top rope on slings around a tree by walking around the left side of the cliff, however, there is no reason why this climb can not be lead with small to medium sized gear.


Photos of Roadside Attraction Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve resting halfway up Roadside Attraction, abou...
Steve resting halfway up Roadside Attraction, abou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shawn Riedel just past the roof.
Shawn Riedel just past the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve in the techy stembox at the start of Roadsid...
Steve in the techy stembox at the start of Roadsid...

Comments on Roadside Attraction Add Comment
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By Bill Price
Feb 7, 2017

Props to Cos for the solo, but a number of guys, including myself, did this in the late '70's. Can't remember if TR or lead. RIP Cos.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Feb 7, 2017
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Say Bill, I think it was Mark Chapman on the FA in like '76? I'll try to dig up some info. The master FA list compiled by Clint Cummins has this entry wrong.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Feb 7, 2017
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

From the horses mouth:

Werner Braun writes:
The first time was me, Dale Bard, Kauk, and one other person I forgot who.
We all went down there to top rope it.
There were telephone lines there that you would swing into and hit when you popped off at the exit of the stem pod (first real crux) Those guys all thought those telephone wires where AC hot lines you would get electrocuted if you touched them, ha ha ha. I told em there's no danger at all! Of course, they didn't believe me and made me go up and hit them to confirm which I did.

Then we started the top rope contest.
can't remember who got it first.

Don't know who led it first.
Don't even care who led it first.
Stupid to lead anyways, haha
By Bill Price
Feb 8, 2017

Thanks for the updated history! Werner (and Clint) are great for that. I could have been there that day, or sometime right after with other guys. I only climbed with those guys a few times, but we all had friendly rivalries, competing to do the next hard crack or repeat someones new testpeice.
By Joe Stern
From: Moab, Utah
May 22, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

For the TR, we hiked up on the right side of the cliff, which seemed to have (somewhat) less poison oak.

For the lead, take a set of cams from blue alien or purple metolius up to #1 BD, with an extra .75 BD and a quickdraw.

Short climb, but very fun moves from bottom to top.

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