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Roadside Acracktion 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Rik Derrick 1981
Page Views: 67
Submitted By: Brian Prince on Dec 29, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Leading Roadside Acracktion. Photo courtesy Matt H...


A pretty sweet and steep crack that ends after 30' or so. The route then goes up and right on very crappy rock to sh*t anchor in more crappy rock.

The pure crack climbing on the lower half is actually really cool and unique for the highway but, unfortunately, the upper half is just so loose. It's easy but terrifying, even for the highway. I'd vote for an anchor after the crack ends even though the route would be pretty short. r and x rated the way it is imho... still worth doing though


To the left and around the corner of Twinkle Toes is this attractive left leaning crack. Like the name advertises, it's right off the road.


Standard rack.

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By clint helander
From: anchorage, alaska
Jan 25, 2013

Climbed this route this summer. I second that it is gnarly up high, lots of chunks coming out as I touched them. Still, the lower bit is rad. The anchor is fine where it is, it keeps the weary away and preserves the "quality" of the route.

Is there still a PBR can half way up the route? We left it there in August, was still there as of mid December. hah!
By C. Williams
From: the Climber Cave
Apr 12, 2016

Anchor replaced April 2016. The old anchor was pulled under body weight.The new anchor is in much better rock just to the right. Needs a new PBR can ;)

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