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Road Warrior 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, 1998
Page Views: 2,262
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 1, 2001

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Road Warrior can be done from the ground, as two pitches, or it can be done from the ledge as a single pitch, and the following description assumes that you will start from the ledge.

Begin at the left of two double-bolt belay anchors on the ledge that splits the lower level of this sector of High Wire (we like to call this sector The Queen City Slab area). Easy slabbin' gains a tricky corner system below the roof where a good rest can be had. Clip high and return to the stance before launching. The first 5.12 crux comes in pulling over the first overlap. This gains a vertical face with very poor hands and feet, and another 5.12 crux. Gun for the large, friendly looking flake above and get jammed in. A very technical traverse right picks up the 5.12d section. This has been called 5.13, but beta from the younger, stronger crowd suggests that a bit of the sting can be taken out by moving straight up into the overlaps without completing the traverse. Muscle through the 5.11c overlaps on glorious stone.

It is worth three stars by any estimate: continuity, stone quality, climbing moves, excellent pro all add up to another great route from the Drillmeister.


QDs only. This 85 foot route needs 14 or so draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 20, 2001

Well, going back for a repeat attempt on 18 August did not make this route any easier. Rob Pizem, Piz, told me that he used a system of edges to work through the crux and he was ready to give the route 5.12c. I went up with this in mind, and now feel that Alan had it right in the first place, closer to 5.13. As near as I can tell, pulling the edges above the jam flake leads absolutely nowhere. The very difficult finger traverse leads to a jug and significantly easier climbing to follow. If the edge system has gone by others I'd like to know how the sequence worked. By the way, the moves into the first roof have changed since a key corner has broken off next to the bolt. In this case, the move actually becomes easier since it forces a huge reach, that was always an option. Now that it is nearly mandatory, it seems much easier. I've said it before, but this is another surperb addition by Alan Nelson, King of the Creek.
By Jesse Ryan
Oct 9, 2003
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Good route. Tricky crux - not too powerful and pretty technical - on the order of Y2K or TDD.
By ac
Aug 29, 2005

The bolt at the crux is in a weird location, as if Alan had intended to push the crux through the flakes above the bolt. The traverse seems like the only reasonable, although very hard/slabby/techy, option. The bolt is in a weird place for this (like almost behind your head) and the fall could twist you in an unexpected way. Nearly impossible to yard and work the crux due to the bolt's location. The quick links at the crux suggest that failure and subsequent bailing here is the norm.

Weird route... not at all roofy like it appears from the ground... very slabby technical crux.
By Adam Peters
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 2, 2008
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I went up this route a few weeks ago without any knowledge of its grade or history, I just thought it looked good and vaguely remember somebody saying something about a 12a in the vicinity. I was pleasantly surprised that this route was at high wire, previously I had written the crag off, but I think that this route coupled with Road Rash are worth a stop if you can wade through the crowds. I worked out the knee bar beta and left hand, gaston sequence and it seemed to be a really fun crux. I think that in all this route probably goes at the 12 c/d level when taking into account the lower move off the slimpers to gain the good jug. All in all, this route is worth your time if you are headed up the canyon or to the Wall of Justice.
By Matt Battaglia
Jul 14, 2009
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Ok maybe I suck but I did this today and thought that this was 12d/13a-ish. Someone else posted about some kneebar, but I can't even guess where you would kneebar on this crux. From the start of the steeps to the jug rest seemed about V4/5, then I did the traverse out right on the shite crimpers and poor left slopey gastons and felt that crux to be V6/7 (and I climb that grade without too much issue). Great route with cool jam rests but lame placement of final anchor bolts. Maybe I missed something.
By Chris. T.
Oct 20, 2013

This is certainly the best line @ High Wire Crag. A long route with varied climbing on great rock and great position high above the rest of the wall. Great movement from start to finish. Tricky beta might make it feel a bit stiff at first, but with the right sequences, it comes together nicely at around 12c (might be harder for short folks). Exciting finish as well. This route is often overlooked but deserves more traffic and should be on anyone's 12+ C.C.C. ticklist.

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