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Road to Redemption 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Peavey, Wilhelmi, Gibson
Page Views: 2,762
Submitted By: Spencer Anderson on Aug 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Elijah on Road to Redemption in the middle of Dece...


I have a love hate relationship with this route. On one hand, it has some fantastic moves and great holds. But these areas of bliss are interrupted by broken and dirty rock. This route also checks in at one of the longest on the Chamber Wall, which definitely makes a difference as you work to crux sequence at the very end. The majority of the route is vertical until the end when it steepens for the last 15 ft or so. If this route cleans up more, it could get another star.


This route is the last one (maybe) before moving to the upper Chamber, just to the left of Sanctus. Look at the photo.


13 bolts to a pair of anchors with chains. Helmet might be nice. Use a 60m rope for sure and tie a knot in the end (like you know you should anyway).

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By Dougald MacDonald
Oct 31, 2010

Yes, there's a bit of suspect rock when you step left for rests, and for sure it would be better if you had no choice but to climb straight up the solid center band. But this is still a great climbing experience: long for the Palace, and continuously engaging. The rests aren't as good or as frequent as the guidebook suggests, and the final moves are all-out (with, fortunately, an excellent rest shortly beforehand!).
By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Apr 8, 2011

Fun, fun, fun. No move harder than 5.10, but not many less than 5.10 either, with a short/steep crux up high.
By Nick Barczak
Feb 7, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Very fun climb. Probably a bit soft for 11b.
By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 22, 2014

Great route. Maybe the best on the wall. I don't think it's 11b except maybe for the top, but a ton of feet will help keep the pump away.
By Carly K.
Mar 8, 2016

My partner pulled off a shoebox-sized block at one of the last bolts on Sunday while toproping. It landed on me. I'm ok, but please! Wear your helmet. This route is incredibly chossy.

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