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Three O'clock Rock
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Magic Bus T 
Masters of the Universe S 
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Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 
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Road to Nowhere T 
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Under the Bored Walk S 

Road to Nowhere 

YDS: 5.1 French: 2 Ewbanks: 6 UIAA: II ZA: 7 British: MD 2a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.1 French: 2 Ewbanks: 6 UIAA: II ZA: 7 British: MD 2a [details]
FA: Veldhuisen, Heiser, Hanna, Perkins 2016 (possibly soloed by early explorers)
Season: When dry - mostly May through Oct
Page Views: 323
Submitted By: Curtveld on Aug 12, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Road to Nowhere, 3 O Clock Rock

Description 

Road to Nowhere is an entry-level route that allows beginners to ascend a long clean slab at an unintimidating grade. It is bolted for the moderately skilled leader but the 20-30’ spacing retains a bit of the runout tradition. Hopefully RTN will provide a gateway experience for a new generation of Darrington regulars!

P 1. Follow the small right-angling dike past two bolts and a short thin crack (optional cam) to a small ledge with a bit of debris. Clip a long sling and continue ~25 m up the open face to a 2-bolt anchor on an L-shaped overlap (look closely, no chains!). (low fifth, 40 m)

P 2. Step right and continue straight up past three bolts, the middle at a small overlap. Belay at a small ledge with double bolts below large bush (5.1, 28 m).

It is possible to do the entire climb in one ~70 m pitch.

Descent is by rappel: Single 70 m: two easy raps. Single 60 m: Upper rap easy, lower requires ~20’ of down-climbing. Double 60s: Two easy raps or one rope-stretcher.

Location 

Three O Clock Rock - lower right side of the North Buttress. The route starts about 40’ right of Silent Running start. First couple of bolts are obvious.

Protection 

Slings plus optional small cam (~1”) for pitch 1. A longish sling on bolt #3 will reduce rope drag. Bolts are gray powder-coated, so look closely!


Photos of Road to Nowhere Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Road to Nowhere - mellow slabbing on pitch 1.
Road to Nowhere - mellow slabbing on pitch 1.

Comments on Road to Nowhere Add Comment
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By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
May 27, 2017

This may be the first route graded 5.1 that I have ever seen. Good to finally see one.
By Curtveld
May 27, 2017

No, not a typo! It's a low-fifth slab climb, beyond that, who knows? Looking forward to seeing what others think about grade and quality.

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