Road to Nowhere
||Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
|Original: || YDS: 5.1 French: 2 Ewbanks: 6 UIAA: II ZA: 7 British: MD 2a [details]|
|FA: ||Veldhuisen, Heiser, Hanna, Perkins 2016 (possibly soloed by early explorers)|
|Season: ||When dry - mostly May through Oct|
|Page Views: ||199|
|Submitted By: ||Curtveld on Aug 12, 2016|
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BETA PHOTO: Road to Nowhere, 3 O Clock Rock
Road to Nowhere is an entry-level route that allows beginners to ascend a long clean slab at an unintimidating grade. It is bolted for the moderately skilled leader but the 20-30’ spacing retains a bit of the runout tradition. Hopefully RTN will provide a gateway experience for a new generation of Darrington regulars!
P 1. Follow the small right-trending dike past two bolts and a short thin crack (optional cam) to a small ledge with a bit of loose debris. Clip a long sling and continue another ~20 m up the open face to a 2-bolt anchor on an L-shaped overlap. (low fifth, 40 m)
P 2. Step right and continue straight up past three bolts, the middle at a small overlap. Belay at a small ledge with double bolts below large bush (5.1, 28 m).
It is possible to do the entire climb in one ~70 m pitch.
Descent is by rappel: Single 70 m: two easy raps. Single 60 m: Upper rap easy, lower requires ~20’ of down-climbing. Double 60s: Two easy raps or one rope-stretcher.
Three O Clock Rock - lower right side of the North Buttress. The route starts about 40’ right of Silent Running start.
Slings plus optional small cam (~1”) for pitch 1. A longish sling on bolt #3 will reduce rope drag.
Road to Nowhere - mellow slabbing on pitch 1.