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Three O'clock Rock
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20th Century Clock S 
Big Tree 2000 T 
Big Tree, The T 
Bushy Galore T 
Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect S 
Cornucopia  T 
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Magic Bus T 
Masters of the Universe S 
Penny Lane T 
Pucker Up S 
Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 
Rash, The T 
Road to Nowhere T 
Silent Running T 
Till Broad Daylight T 
Total Soul T 
Under the Bored Walk S 

Road to Nowhere 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: Veldhuisen, Heiser, Hanna, Perkins 2016 (possibly soloed by early explorers)
Season: When dry - mostly May through Oct
Page Views: 444
Submitted By: Curtveld on Aug 12, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Road to Nowhere, 3 O Clock Rock

Description 

Road to Nowhere was established to allow beginners to ascend a long clean slab at an unintimidating grade. It is bolted for the moderately skilled leader but the 20-30’ spacing retains a bit of the runout tradition.

P 1. Follow the small right-angling dike past two bolts and a short thin crack (optional cam) to a small ledge with a bit of debris. Clip a long sling and continue ~25 m up the open face to a 2-bolt anchor on an L-shaped overlap (look closely, hard to see!). (5.1, 45 m)

P 2. Step right, surmount the small overlap and continue straight up past three bolts, the middle at a broad 3' overlap. Belay at a small ledge with double bolts below large cedar bush (5.3, 28 m).

Solid climbers can combine into one pitches using 60 or 70 m rope and a bit of simul-climbing.

Descent is by rappel: Single 70 m: two raps. Single 60 m: Upper rap easy, lower requires ~20’ of down-climbing. Double 60s: Two easy raps or one rope-stretcher.

Location 

Three O Clock Rock - lower right side of the North Buttress. The route starts about 40’ right of Silent Running pillar. First couple of bolts are obvious.

Protection 

Slings plus optional small cam (~1”) for pitch 1. A longish sling on bolt #3 will reduce rope drag. Bolts are gray powder-coated, so look closely!


Photos of Road to Nowhere Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Road to Nowhere - mellow slabbing on pitch 1.
Road to Nowhere - mellow slabbing on pitch 1.

Comments on Road to Nowhere Add Comment
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By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
May 27, 2017

This may be the first route graded 5.1 that I have ever seen. Good to finally see one.
By Curtveld
May 27, 2017

No, not a typo! It's a low-fifth slab climb, beyond that, who knows? Looking forward to seeing what others think about grade and quality.

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