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Road To Emmaus 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Nelson, Rolofson, 2000
Page Views: 1,939
Submitted By: Chris Beh on Aug 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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BETA PHOTO: The start. This route is the furthest right at ...

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  • Description 

    This is the last route at the top of the hill. The second pitch climbs through the attractive, green double roof high on the wall.

    P1. Climb over the low roof, 11a/b, and then up the wall above with another 10+ move. 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

    P2. Move up the right hand line of bolts, above the belay. The first roof is the crux, 11a/b, with a big reach to a jug, get a shake above with more fun moves climbing up and right through a 2nd roof, 10+, finishes with 30 feet of fun, exposed 9+. 8 bolts to the lowering anchor.


    P1 - 7 bolts. P2 - 8 bolts.

    Comments on Road To Emmaus Add Comment
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    By Chris Beh
    Aug 10, 2008

    Mark rates the 2nd pitch of this route 11d in his guide. It looks like from the way they bolted it they were contriving a bouldery, lip encounter on the first roof. I used a big undercling on the right and it feels like easy 11, much easier than, say, Crash Test Blonde at Security Risk...but very, very fun.

    The 1st pitch of New Test of Men can be linked with the 2nd pitch of this route as one pitch. Don't clip the belay bolts as you go by the anchor at the top of the 1st pitch. A 70M rope will lower to the ground from the top. I think a 60M might work for the lower, too, but I haven't tried it. It makes for a pretty fun, long pitch and a good warm up for the crag. Take 16 draws.
    By Ken Leiden
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 22, 2008
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    I agree with Chris -- 2nd pitch is easy 11 and using the undercling/sidepull follows the line naturally. 2nd pitch is one of the best jug hauls in Boulder Canyon at the grade. The fun factor is very high on this one. Probably the best "easy" route at Easter Rock.
    By Brian Adzima
    From: San Francisco
    Sep 10, 2009

    A 60m gets you to the ground with plenty to spare.
    By Chris Archer
    Jul 28, 2010
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Terrific climbing, but don't blow it getting to the first bolt.
    By Chris Archer
    Jul 21, 2012
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    There was a chain on the first bolt for several years that eliminated the unneccesarily dangerous moves to the first bolt. Someone swiped it. Bring a stick clip, replacement chain or health insurance.
    By SteveZ
    From: Denver, CO
    Oct 14, 2012

    For what it's worth, the chain on the first bolt is back.
    By Pablo Bles
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 17, 2014
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Both pitches can be linked into one super pitch, which I think goes as 11b, but use long draws or even some runners, or the rope drag at the top will be really bad.
    By Mark Rolofson
    Jul 23, 2017
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    It has probably been over a decade since I last did this climb, but I did it a couple times at least. Alan wasn't trying to contrive a "bouldery, lip encounter" problem on pitch 2. I do remember using a big undercling on the right. As for the rating, I don't have a strong opinion, except to say I don't think it is only .11a. I was climbing quite strong in 2000 & climbing a lot. 4 times a week & sometimes 10 pitches of 5.11a to 5.13a in a day.

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