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Road to Cala Gonone 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 593
Submitted By: Justin Kenderes on Apr 16, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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New route on the far right side. Don't know the name or difficulty level but climbed it this weekend and am inclined to say 9/10a depending on your crack technique. Fun but some of the rock is suspect. If anyone knows the actual name/FA, let me know and I'll update.


Starts up the dihedral on the far right.


Around 11 shiny new bolts and mussey hooks at the top.

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By Tom Helvie
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 16, 2013

The name is "Road to Cala Gonone". I believe it was put up by Robert Zambetti but I'm not positive.
By Jonathan Howland
Jul 7, 2013

95 feet long, and 12 bolts, I think. 5.9 move or two.
Worthy addition -- thank you RZ or whoever did the work.
Belayer should wear a helmet, along with anyone else at the base of Wacked Scenario area.
By James Barnett
From: Bishop Ca.
Jul 27, 2013

Felt like 5.9
By The Farley
From: Idaho Springs
Nov 10, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

fun climb.. a little crunchy in places but the top is solid climbing.
By kozzybear406
From: Livingston, MT
Apr 1, 2014

A face hold right after the no-hands rest is loose. Just don't crank on it...
By Joe Crawford
From: June Lake, California
Jul 25, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Decent route. Cleaned a fair bit of loose stuff off of it this February. It should clean up to be a nice addition to the GT.
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Nov 14, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Still cleaning up and will probably be a pretty good route once all of the choss/gravel/poop is cleaned off. FYI - between bolts 2 and 3 there is a large loose flake in the corner and what appears to be a massive death-block out on the face to the left. Tread lightly through this section, or better yet, bring a crow bar.
By phylp
From: Upland
Jun 1, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Enjoyable Jams, liebacking and stemming. Nice change of pace from the typical Gorge moves.
By BAd
Jul 8, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Loved it. Some great "hero" jams up there. A little grit and such but not hard to avoid. We ran a couple of laps on it.
By Acmesalute76
Jul 10, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This thing is a total chosspile. As my partner said, "this route even smells bad". One star for the fun crack at the top.

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