|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 140'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Season:||Gets PM sun|
|Submitted By:||Tony B on May 7, 2007|
|Comments on Road Rage||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Kiri Namtvedt
Jul 6, 2010
|Once you've gone to the right at the top your anchor will probably require a large cam or some creativity. (I had to provide creativity). Also, the crux is around the 2/3rds point where you trend slightly left.|
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 13, 2013
|The top-out of this route was confusing to me. It seemed if I went far left, I would get a lot of rope drag. So I chose to go straight up some steep, overhanging cracks. They offered protection but were really quite strenuous, more like 5.9, although engaging. I wanted a warm-up... be careful what you wish for, ha ha!|
By Hendo Henderson
From: Denver, CO
Jun 18, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yeah, you do have to be creative building an anchor at the top. I vaguely remember using a #3 and #2?
If you go left at the top, the rope drag does get pretty bad. BUT, the climbing is very easy and safe. It's a 5.4 ramp or so that's probably on 20ft long. Plus the overhanging crack that the above commentor went up looked way too intense for this feeble climber. The rope drage is definitely why this route doesn't get more stars! The two bulge sections are a lot of fun!
Oh! We rappelled off with a 70m. But be careful pulling your rope from the anchors. Our rope got wicked stuck, had to reclimb the route. Pull way to the right to prevent our fiasco.