Road Less Warren
||Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110'
|Original: ||WI4-5 M5 [details]|
|FA: ||K Gillest & E Lashinsky, 12/2009|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Fall or early Winter|
|Page Views: ||1,766|
|Submitted By: ||Kevin Gillest on Dec 21, 2009|
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Very minimal ice on Oct. 30, 2011.
Climbed straight up middle of lower curtain (in your face), traversed right to column, climbed through small mixed roof to easier ground, rock gear at roof, top out was completely dry with good rock gear. (In November there appears to be more variations possible)
Now that anchor is fixed, it's possible to lower into drainage, no downclimb needed.
This route is located on the left side, above and left of the top out on "The Road
" route. Best way to approach would be to climb "The Road
" or "Concrete Shoes...
" hike towards the saddle/col, look down into 2nd to last drainage before the saddle/col.
Approach: Hike from Echo Lake on the Chicago Lakes trail 5 miles until you reach the first Chicago Lake. Cross the valley/lake and head up to the main rock buttress on Mt. Warren.
Descent: Hike southeast to the saddle/col and descend to the Mt. Evans Road. Take the road back from between mile markers 7 and 8, shortcuts are possible.
17cm screws and stubbies, light rock rack if climbed in mixed conditions.
Anchor: 6mm cord with quick link for easy descent fixed 15 feet directly above ice.
BETA PHOTO: Eric Lashinsky showing mile marker 7 after getting...
Eric Lashinsky just getting through the roof, near...
BETA PHOTO: Picture of Road Less Warren, looking sublimated co...
BETA PHOTO: Picture of route 11/22/09, not climbed until 12/20...
BETA PHOTO: Road Less Warren - Green The Road - Yellow Concret...
By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Dec 21, 2009
Route was fairly sublimated, but well bonded. A long approach combined with a short route, better to climb "The Road" Or "Concrete Shoes" first. We climbed "Concrete Shoes" and than got this one on the walk out, both routes in 11 hours, car to car.