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Ranger Station Rock 2
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Road Kill 
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Road Kill 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Ryan Hunt
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 87
Submitted By: monotrope on Oct 7, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: High step and top out...

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Description 

This line follows an arete to the right of Slab Problem V1.
Sit start just to the right of the south side arete on sharp crimpers. Move left on side pulls and crimpers into a sloper dish on the arete for the left hand and a blank hold for the right. Throw a left heel hook around the corner and squeeze the rock to make a series of left hand compression bumps all the way up to a thin ledge. Top out on ledges slightly up and right.
This might be a reach problem, but alternative beta seems possible. The crux is probably making the last bump to the upper hold.

Location 

South side of Ranger Station Rock #2 to the right Slab Problem (V1), and to the left of Tourist Treat (V0). Sit start on thin crimpers of the left and right hand.

Protection 

Pads and spotter. I cleaned up most of the choss and grains, but there is still the possibility for bad rock.


Photos of Road Kill Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Making the crux bump at full extension.
BETA PHOTO: Making the crux bump at full extension.
Rock Climbing Photo: Making the first bump after setting the heel hooki...
BETA PHOTO: Making the first bump after setting the heel hooki...
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving onto the arete
BETA PHOTO: Moving onto the arete
Rock Climbing Photo: Sit start position
BETA PHOTO: Sit start position
Rock Climbing Photo: Beta photo for the south side of Ranger Station Ro...
BETA PHOTO: Beta photo for the south side of Ranger Station Ro...

Comments on Road Kill Add Comment
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By monotrope
Oct 7, 2013

I'm tentatively posting this as a first ascent based on the amount of choss that I had to scrub off of the holds. After asking around it seems that this line has never been done, but I'm aware of the possibility that I'm wrong.
Also, the grade is just a suggestion based on a number of other routes in the area. This seems much harder to me than Blue Flame for instance, but not as hard as Byron's Roof. Take that for whatever it's worth...
By RTM
Oct 7, 2013

Have not heard of anyone climbing this before. Sounds kinda rotten for 3 stars?!
By monotrope
Oct 8, 2013

A couple of the holds were pretty rotten before cleaning. Over the course of about 4 sessions I pulled off pretty much all the grain that was there and what's left are pretty good slopers. The only hold that might still be friable is the last bump ledge. If it breaks it will still go, but it will be a bit more difficult.
The three stars are for: the movement-- which flows really well, the line-- which is uncontrived, and my opinion-- it was pretty fun. I'm assuming that consensus will settle somewhere else, and that's cool.

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