Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Riverside Quarry

Select Area...
(a) Slab City 
(b) Metro Sector 
(c) Left of the Roof 
(d) Roof Area 
(e) Right of the Roof 
(f) Torture Machine Area 
(g) Slander Sector 
(h) Rubble Row 
(i) Slide Zone 
(j) The Tall Wall 
(k) The Shield 
(l) Anger Management Area 
(m) Taboo Area 
(n) The Alcove 
(o) Schoolhouse Rock 
(p) The Fun Factory 
(q) Agony Arch Area 

Riverside Quarry Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,000'
Location: 34.0169, -117.4166 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 142,977
Administrators: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Adam Stackhouse, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Isaac T. on Dec 30, 2006  with updates from ablock0
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [5 people like this page.]

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The majority of the Quarry is west facing, so the seasons dictate when is the best time to climb. In the summer you can climb to noon, in the winter climb in the Agony Arch area in the morning and the rest of the crag in the afternoon. When it is really windy a few climbs in Slab City are protected. This is a popular area for dirt bikers; on the weekends it can get really busy and noisy. There are so many climbs here that crowds are sparse.

The granite is very high quality and has many unique features due to the early quarrying operations. A lot of the climbs have key holds reinforced with glue and more than a few climbs have holds drilled or chipped. Most of the routes are over 100 feet, some with as many as 24 bolts. This is mostly a sport climbing area, with chains or other suitable anchors at the top of almost every climb. Many routes can be done with 10-12 quickdraws, though.

This place is a great place to spend an afternoon, but due to its close proximity to Riverside and other surrounding cities, there is a lot of trash, junked cars, and random other pieces of junk that no one wants anymore. If you are looking for a beautiful, quiet place to climb, this is definitely not it. If you are looking for an afternoon of fun climbing on good rock this is your ticket.

Access 

The Quarry is on private property and driving into the quarry is not allowed - please park on the street. The land owner has a mutual understanding with the rock climbers and allows us to climb here. Please be respectful and keep the noise down, pick up your trash (I know it seems kinda pointless sometimes), and smile and be polite to the police officers when they come through. The more you do, the less likely it is for this place to be closed.

Food 

Although there are lots of fast food restaurants nearby the preferred choice is the nearby TJ's Tacos which is just north of the 60 Freeway on the right-hand side (as you drive to the crag) which has amazing tacos (try the carne asada tacos) for $1.35 they are amazing.

Guidebook 

A lot of the route beta (# of bolts anchors at the top, and locations) are taken from the guide book, for the sole purpose of providing information and developing further interest in the area. Please contact Louie Anderson (socalbolter@cox.net) to get a copy of the guide book. This are has been very well developed, and most of the cost has been paid for by the route developers. 100% of the proceeds of the guidebook go towards paying for bolts and anchors at the Riverside Quarry. The cost of the guide book is $19.95.

Getting There 

From Los Angeles and points west: Take the I-10 Freeway East, South on I-15, East on the 60. Exit Valley Way. Turn left; the cliffs are now visible to the NE. Turn right on Sierra, and then left on the dirt road after the housing development.

From Redlands and points east: Take the I-10 West to the I-215 South, then West on 60. Exit Valley Way/Arnold, turn right then another right on Sierra.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.6 miles from here

185 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',20],['3 Stars',68],['2 Stars',73],['1 Star',22],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',5],['5.8',5],['5.9',10],['5.10',54],['5.11',52],['5.12',44],['5.13',10],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Riverside Quarry

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Riverside Quarry:
Uncle Ho   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   (g) Slander Sector
Flexercise   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   (c) Left of the Roof
Wonderstuff   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   (f) Torture Machine Area
Tangerine Dream   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   (f) Torture Machine Area
Trundle Trophy   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   (c) Left of the Roof
Flesh and Blood   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   (c) Left of the Roof
Agony Arch   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   (q) Agony Arch Area
American Dream   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 4 pitches, 250'   (d) Roof Area
Nostalgia   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   (d) Roof Area
Violator   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   (m) Taboo Area
Leviathan   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   (d) Roof Area
Forbidden Fruit   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   (m) Taboo Area
Raging Raptor   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   (c) Left of the Roof
Survival of the Fittest   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   (e) Right of the Roof
Hanging by a Thread   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   (d) Roof Area
Choss Goggles   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   (c) Left of the Roof
Trepanation   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 145'   (d) Roof Area
Taboo   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   (m) Taboo Area
La Bella Donna   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   (e) Right of the Roof
Kingpin   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   (h) Rubble Row
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Riverside Quarry

Featured Route For Riverside Quarry
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh Higgins on Taboo (5.12c), Riverside Quarry.

Taboo 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  CA : Inland Empire : ... : (m) Taboo Area
This climb desereves to be recognized! Brilliant, difficult climbing in a perfect stemming corner with great rock. Starts with blocky bolt protected face climbing off the belay ledge, then the climb gains another ledge at the base of a vertical corner with a crisp fingercrack. Stems and liebacks get one through the start to another stance midway, then this thing gets suprisingly steep and the crack gets thin! About a body length of powerful moves and desperate stems will see you through this st...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Riverside Quarry Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cambria Ortega on the popular Tangerine Dream (5.1...
Cambria Ortega on the popular Tangerine Dream (5.1...
Rock Climbing Photo: Trailside sunflowers, Riverside Quarry
Trailside sunflowers, Riverside Quarry
Rock Climbing Photo: Double Rainbow at the quarry...Riverside Quarry, t...
Double Rainbow at the quarry...Riverside Quarry, t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh Higgins on Taboo (5.12c), Riverside Quarry.
Josh Higgins on Taboo (5.12c), Riverside Quarry.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brad Singer midway up Agony Arch (5.11b), Riversid...
Brad Singer midway up Agony Arch (5.11b), Riversid...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris makes a clip at the Riverside Quarry
Chris makes a clip at the Riverside Quarry
Rock Climbing Photo: A touch of color, Riverside Quarry
A touch of color, Riverside Quarry
Rock Climbing Photo: The quarry is a multiple use recreation area.
The quarry is a multiple use recreation area.
Rock Climbing Photo: Riverside Quarry panorama
Riverside Quarry panorama
Rock Climbing Photo: Original Sin, 11b, Riverside Quarry Photo: Louie A...
Original Sin, 11b, Riverside Quarry Photo: Louie A...
Rock Climbing Photo: Packing up at sunset.
Packing up at sunset.
Rock Climbing Photo: Checker Fiddleneck (Amsinckia tessellata), Riversi...
Checker Fiddleneck (Amsinckia tessellata), Riversi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Why, when its only a 4 minute walk?
Why, when its only a 4 minute walk?
Rock Climbing Photo: Tangerine Dream rap.
BETA PHOTO: Tangerine Dream rap.
Rock Climbing Photo: Map. Approx locations of areas.
BETA PHOTO: Map. Approx locations of areas.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun to speculate the history here
Fun to speculate the history here
Rock Climbing Photo: Winter climbing at it's finest, Riverside Quarry
Winter climbing at it's finest, Riverside Quarry
Rock Climbing Photo: Agony Arch (5.11b), Riverside Quarry
Agony Arch (5.11b), Riverside Quarry
Rock Climbing Photo: A partial view of the escarpment from the "Sc...
A partial view of the escarpment from the "Sc...
Rock Climbing Photo: The adventure begins here!
The adventure begins here!
Rock Climbing Photo: Hmm
Hmm
Rock Climbing Photo: One of two vehicles broken into on 5/03/09. A visu...
One of two vehicles broken into on 5/03/09. A visu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful pinkish hue of a sunset at the Quarry.
Beautiful pinkish hue of a sunset at the Quarry.
Rock Climbing Photo: Art comes in all forms...
Art comes in all forms...

Show All 46 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Riverside Quarry Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 30, 2016
By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Jan 17, 2007
From the website maximuspress.com/maximus-press...

Climbers’ Guide:
Riverside Quarry
Louie Anderson

April 2005 - 1st Edition
$19.95 - 124 pages - 5.5” x 8.5”
ISBN: 0-9766630-1-5
Louie Anderson Publisher

The Riverside Quarry offers superb climbing on steep, featured granite. Unlike other regional areas, the routes here are long, many of them over 100 feet in length. Not only will you find sport climbing, but a handful of excellent quality crack and aid climbs as well. All of this on a cliff that’s centrally located to all of Southern California, and with one of the shortest approaches around.
By Nate "Mustang" Johnson
From: Lake Elsinore, CA
Jun 4, 2008
I visited this place for the first time last week. I want to thank whoever took the time to clean up the area at the base of the shield. The benches, rock and 4x4 retaining walls are wonderful. They make the area seem very nice in contrast to the rest of the quarry. If the climbers who did that ever need en extra guy to help out, i would be more than happy to pitch in. Thanks again for taking the time to clean up this wonderful spot.

-Nate
By C Miller
Administrator
Jun 4, 2008
You can thank Louie Anderson (socalbolter) for the drive and vision to make the Quarry what it is today. There are clean-ups/maintenance days now and then, so keep your ear to the ground.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 8, 2009
Taller than the pictures here might suggest
By bill12345
Jul 15, 2009
hey are any parts of the quarry able to be toproped? i dont have a partner right now and am trying to find a place where i can set up a solo belay device. thanks!
By C Miller
Administrator
Jul 15, 2009
The (q) Agony Arch Area is really the only area that can safely and easily accessed for TR'ing without leading.
By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Sep 8, 2009
Riverside Quarry; developed by Mark Smith and Richard Jensen. And a few others. Late 70's early 80's.
By tobin sanson
From: Carbondale, CO
Dec 29, 2009
An amazing area! It offers so many quality routes from easy moderate to fairly difficult. It's proximity to L.A. and warm winter sun offer a great day trip destination and a sweet alternative to Joshua Tree. Every route I have been on is quality and worth repeating. I've noticed the Quarry holds a stunning similarity to Rifle. It climbs almost exactly the same... just no polish and nothing is drastically steep.
By blane
From: Garbage Grove, CA
Feb 28, 2010
More break ins. Today 2/28/10 a white suv was broken into with evidence that there was another break in but the car was gone already. It appears as the person stole their gps unit. Just another reminder to be careful not to leave anything of value insight or in your car period.
By B.S. Luther
From: Yorba Linda, CA
Mar 3, 2010
EDIT: A man-made break that claimed Redrum and The Sweetest Thing at the beginning of March. If you read my original post, rest assured this was intentional; apparently the rock had shown visible signs of movement so they took it down before anything bad happened. Thanks to Louie and everyone else who helps keep up the quarry.
By socalbolter
From: Silverado, CA
Mar 6, 2010
This rock "fall" was intentionally done. That section of detached rock has been progressively shifting over the last few months. I and others had become aware of this and steps were taken to remove the rock at a time when no one was around.

The quarry as a whole is a work in progress and as loose rock is discovered it is either reinforced or removed. Sometimes (as in this case) routes are lost as a result. Rest assured that we will be cleaning and bolting the newly exposed rock, so there will be new routes on much more solid rock as a result.
By socalbolter
From: Silverado, CA
Jan 13, 2011
In a continuing effort to make the routes at the Quarry as safe and solid as possible, I have removed many tons of expanding and loose flakes off the flake band in the middle of the routes Culture Shock, Choss Revolution, and Buzzkill.

Over the next week or so, I will clean the newly exposed rock further, replace and/or move bolts and move on to the next on a long list of "to do" items at the Quarry.

Please enjoy other routes while this work is being done.

Thank you,

- Louie
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Jan 15, 2011
Thanks for cleaning that choss around Choss Revolution Louie. I've been wanting to climb that route, but last time I was there some climbers were breaking off huge pieces of rocks on that route (I'm sure it was accidently and also purposeful on the obvious loose rocks). It felt to choss to climb seeing rock fleeing down to unexpected climbers. Thanks again for keeping it safe out there.

-Jan
By socalbolter
From: Silverado, CA
Jan 16, 2011
So the story takes a turn for the worse:

I was out there yesterday until about 2:00 pm. I left a static rope clove hitched to a few random bolts here and there in the middle of the affected routes, having brushed all the dirt off the exposed rock. I wanted to be able to just jug up and do the remaining work.

Returned this morning at 8:00 am to find that someone had stolen the rope and 6 or 7 draws.

The Quarry was crawling with people yesterday in this area, so someone either did this with everyone watching, or stayed around until the crag was empty and did their deed.

I did some crappy things when I was younger, so maybe this is just my dose of karma, but it really sucks to have things like this happen. Since development of the Quarry began, I've lost about a dozen ropes and untold numbers of draws and biners.

If anyone saw anything, I'd appreciate hearing about it (although I'm not expecting much...).

- Louie
By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Jan 31, 2012
The new guide is really good. Well laid out and full of the usual info you want. It also has plenty of color pictures which really make you want to get out and climb at the quarry.
By Eric Foss
Dec 16, 2013
Video Climbing Guide for Riverside Quarry.


By Morgan Diefenbach
From: Forest Falls, CA
Feb 6, 2014
PSA to my fellow climbers: break-ins at the Quarry are still a problem!

Someone smashed the back window of my Jeep yesterday (2/5/2014) while I was parked on Sierra. The thief (thieves) was clearly not a climber as he didn't touch my camera, rope or trad rack, and instead made a beeline for the local car stereo shop and some ghetto jewelry store in Fontana to try and make purchases with my debit card.

I will be parking well back in the neighborhood from here on out as an extra five-minute walk is well worth not fixing another car window for $230. Here's hoping others can learn and benefit from my bad experience...
By quendalls
From: Chicago, IL
Aug 2, 2014
Arrived at the quarry today (8/2) and as we walked up, the sheriff was pulling into the quarry. We flagged him down and asked about the fence...he said the fence is to prevent the off road vehicles from coming in. He said climbers are still allowed but just don't park inside the fence.
By ablock0
3 days ago
Nearly every time I come here I find a belay tag from either Sender One, Mesa Rim or some other ritzy gym. You may have just learned how to clean routes but please learn to clean up after yourselves before trashing the crag.