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River Wall II

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arresting Arete S 
Big, Big Gunky Man T,S 
Big, Big, Monkey Man T 
Box, The T,TR 
Brother From Another Planet S 
Dihedral [River Wall] aka Shades of Murky Depths S 
Escape from Alcatraz S,TR 
Introducing Meteor Dad S 
Le Diamant E'ternal S 
Livewire T,S 
Neurosurgeon T 
New Horizon S 
Pocket Hercules T 
Redneck Hero S 
Surround Sound  S 

River Wall II Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.22901, -105.34538 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,391
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Nov 28, 2001
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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The River Wall; photo: Bob Horan Collection.

CLOSED for 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This great little crag sits immediately below the Buttonrock Resevior spillway and is packed with stellar sport and trad routes. The climbs range from super technical 'slab' routes such as Introducing Meteor Dad (10+) and Le Diamant E'ternal (13-) to pumpy overhanging face climbs; Escape from Alcatraz (11), Red Neck Hero (12-) and Brother from Another Planet (13) to steep cracks with both jamming and edges like Pocket Hercules (11+), Neurosurgeon (12-) and Lost Horizon (14-). Many of the lines can be set up on toprope if desired - take care! An excellent place to spend the day cranking!

Getting There 

Drive about 3 miles down County Road 80 and park at the gate. Walk down the road a short distance passing a toilet on the right. Your first visit continue up the road as it crosses the river and get a perfect view of all the lines. To access the steep lines New Horizon through Pocket Hercules walk down to the river and cross on rocks just below the spillway to the left side of the cliff base. This access might be impassible during high river (May through July?). During very low water it is sometimes possible (sandals, barfoot and-or poles help) to access the pedestal at the base of Escape from Alcatraz. For all of the lines right of Pocket Hercules, starting with Red Neck Hero and Escape from Alcatraz approach via a steep path up a short sandy hill behind the toilet. This approach involves a short bouldery approach on large positive yet slick holds just above the water = warmup? It is also possible to (1) climb the hillside right of the road prior to the toilet or (2) climb the bolted yet anchorless Pooh Corner (5.8) to attain the top of river wall and rappel to the desired side of river wall.

Climbing Season

For the Longmont Reservoir Area (aka Buttonrock) area.

Weather station 10.2 miles from here

15 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in River Wall II

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for River Wall II:
Livewire   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Introducing Meteor Dad   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Escape from Alcatraz   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Pocket Hercules   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Redneck Hero   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Neurosurgeon   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Big, Big, Monkey Man   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch   
New Horizon   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Brother From Another Planet   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Le Diamant E'ternal   5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in River Wall II

Featured Route For River Wall II
Rock Climbing Photo: Resting after the crux on Neurosurgeon.

Neurosurgeon 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Colorado : Lyons : ... : River Wall II
Neurosurgeon climbs the stellar fingercrack on the far right side of the 'central' River Wall (after the bouldering approach in from right), just right of the steep 'slab' Le Diamant E'ternal. The only reason this climb doesn't receive three stars in my book is the scary finishing options. One must either climb difficult to protect direct 5.11 PG/R finish or move right around the arete as the crack fades in and out and finish on loose scary 5.9 R climbing. The lower portion of the c...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Comments on River Wall II Add Comment
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By Bryan Hylenski
From: Gyeongsan, South Korea
Jul 31, 2003
River wall has a classic 5-10d sport route, "Introducing Meteor Dad." If you live in Lyons or are travelling thru, the riverwall is a must stop. The climbs are never crowded, the rock is solid and very well protected. Most people in Boulder feel there too good for Lyons climbing. But River Wall and a few other areas have some classic climbs. If you are going to climb in this area, get Peter Hubbell's Falcon Guide book "Classic Rock Climbs No. 23 -- Lyons Area Colorado." Other great areas in Lyons that are completely isolated, right off the road and great climbing:Mushroom Massif, Piz Badille and Monkey Skull.
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Mar 30, 2010
Much of the fixed hardware at this cliff has been replaced with new powers bolts. Thanks to whoever put forth the effort and funds to do this. 'Redneck Hero' has new bolts, and anchors on several walls are new.
By Geoff U
From: Centennial, CO
Oct 3, 2016
This wall gets full sun starting near 11 am, though Red Neck stays shaded a bit longer. It is 5 min. approach from parking lot. River was plenty low to cross and give a dry belay in October.