River Wall II Rock Climbing
The River Wall; photo: Bob Horan Collection.
Drive about 3 miles down County Road 80 and park at the gate. Walk down the road a short distance passing a toilet on the right. Your first visit continue up the road as it crosses the river and get a perfect view of all the lines. To access the steep lines New Horizon
through Pocket Hercules
walk down to the river and cross on rocks just below the spillway to the left side of the cliff base. This access might be impassible during high river (May through July?). During very low water it is sometimes possible (sandals, barfoot and-or poles help) to access the pedestal at the base of Escape from Alcatraz
. For all of the lines right of Pocket Hercules
, starting with Red Neck Hero
and Escape from Alcatraz
approach via a steep path up a short sandy hill behind the toilet. This approach involves a short bouldery approach on large positive yet slick holds just above the water = warmup? It is also possible to (1) climb the hillside right of the road prior to the toilet or (2) climb the bolted yet anchorless Pooh Corner (5.8) to attain the top of river wall and rappel to the desired side of river wall.
Weather station 10.2 miles from here
15 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in River Wall II
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in River Wall II
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for River Wall II:
Livewire 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Redneck Hero 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Neurosurgeon 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
R Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
New Horizon 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For River Wall II
Pocket Hercules 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Colorado
: ... : River Wall II
This is the crack 25 feet left of "Redneck Hero". Steep and pumpy this route has good pro and fun movement. The route "Big, Big Monkey Man" splits off about mid way up. Best to do this route when the river is low. i.e. spring, fall. At the top traverse right to a bolted anchor at the top of "Big, Big Monkey Man."...[more] Browse More Classics in Colorado
By Bryan Hylenski
From: Gyeongsan, South Korea
Jul 31, 2003
River wall has a classic 5-10d sport route, "Introducing Meteor Dad." If you live in Lyons or are travelling thru, the riverwall is a must stop. The climbs are never crowded, the rock is solid and very well protected. Most people in Boulder feel there too good for Lyons climbing. But River Wall and a few other areas have some classic climbs. If you are going to climb in this area, get Peter Hubbell's Falcon Guide book "Classic Rock Climbs No. 23 -- Lyons Area Colorado." Other great areas in Lyons that are completely isolated, right off the road and great climbing:Mushroom Massif, Piz Badille and Monkey Skull.
Mar 30, 2010
Much of the fixed hardware at this cliff has been replaced with new powers bolts. Thanks to whoever put forth the effort and funds to do this. 'Redneck Hero' has new bolts, and anchors on several walls are new.
By Geoff U
From: Centennial, CO
Oct 3, 2016
This wall gets full sun starting near 11 am, though Red Neck stays shaded a bit longer. It is 5 min. approach from parking lot. River was plenty low to cross and give a dry belay in October.