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River Wall
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River Dance S 
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River Dance 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, 1998
Page Views: 1,058
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Jan 1, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: The River Wall. L->R for the crag.

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This is a fantastic line and one of my favorites on this wall. Climb the gently overhung face past the initial 12b crux via a wicked small finger jam. Follow with some 11d moves to a beatiful no hands rest on a ledge. Rest well and save some juice because the final 15 feet are sustained and probably 12a the entire time to the finish jug. There is good exposure on this one and lots of body tension technique involved. Overall a tough route with great position and classic moves. Highly recomended.


12 bolts/2 bolt anchor. 50 meter rope will work, but just barely so tie a big knot in the end before lowering.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 12, 2017
By Chris Archer
Jul 18, 2001
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This is an outstanding route. Interesting enduro climbing the entire way, but way overrated. 12a seems more acurate. The move on Adventure kayak trundle seems to be considerably more difficult than any move on River dance. Most first timers I've brought to the River Wall flash RD and fall off AKT.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 18, 2001

I would have to disagree with Chris on this score. All of the difficulties on AKT are largely over passing the second bolt and this is unquestionably easier than the crux on River Dance. AKT is done as a very wide stem and as such barely gets a 5.12 rating. My own feeling was much more like 5.11c. The reachy crux on RD is, in my opinion, much more difficult, solid 5.12. And, too boot, a second 5.12 crux is to be had just below the anchor. Neither of these cruxes on RD is hard 5.12, but they certainly fall in that domain. AKT barely gets a 5.12 rating and is much closer to 5.11c/d.
By Nate Weitzel
Aug 2, 2001

Chris: I would really like to meet some of these "first timers" who flash River Dance. That would be quite a sight........
By David Benson
Sep 25, 2001

To continue the controversy, I have to agree with Chris Archer. Yesterday my partner and I both lead ADK and RD. I thought RD was considerably easier (inspite of climbing ADK first), and would agree with the 12a move. Perhaps I was just having a really good day, but I thought the lower vertical section(12b indicated on topo) was pretty straight forward, 11d/12a.

My partner thought they were more similar in difficulty with the edge going to RD.
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 1, 2001

5.12a ?
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 13, 2004

Anybody know the name of the route immediately right of RiverDance? How hard is it on the lower wall and does it go over the roof? Looks interesting.
By ac
Aug 1, 2005

I would say hard-12a or easy-12b. 12a/b, then. Definitely harder than AKT and White Water. In hot conditions the crux at the anchor felt harder than the lower crux, probably b/c of the pump factor and greasy/licheneyness.
By Swavek Gaik
From: Superior, CO
Aug 11, 2007

12b/c is surely a "make you feel good" rating. Go for it 5.11 climbers
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jul 20, 2008

No way this is easier than AKT. more sustained climbing throughout (except the no hands rest half way up, lol), with two .12- sections (the lower crux may be .11++ with good beta), one being near the top followed by a few .11 moves that would be easy to blow on the RP. ATK is pretty much over after the .12 move down low, although it does have decent .11 climbing through the rest of it, but at less intensity than river dance. I would have to agree with David and say they are pretty close in difficulty, but River Dance is definitely harder.
By Mike McKinnon
From: Golden, CO
Sep 18, 2009

Darren's book gives this 12a/b which I think is fine given AKT is 12a.
By Mark Rolofson
May 12, 2017
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

You could definitely rate this climb .12a/b. It always felt a bit easier than White Water I will stick with the .12b rating. I haven't climbed it since 2006 but climbed it a few times between 1998 & 2006. Unlike White Water, both the lower face & the finish are .12a/b.

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