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Armando's Stilletto / Rites of Spring
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Rites of Spring 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Kevin Leary, Bill Taylor
Page Views: 6,750
Submitted By: Greg Barnes on Jan 16, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: take the double cracks up!


The 'long' trad classic of Pine Creek, with lots of hand cracks and variety. A bit of crumbly and/or hollow rock in several spots (including the crux).


See Marty Lewis guide. Two raps with two 60m ropes just barely make it down (watch rope ends!). The second rap comes down right in the middle of the sport routes on the Ministry wall, and the creek noise makes it hard to hear, so make sure you yell "Rope!" very loudly and give folks below a bit of time to react before you pummel them with the ends of two 60m ropes dropped from 190' above!


Pro to 4" including micronuts/RPs for crux, extra 1.25-3". Two trad anchors, two bolted anchors with Mussy hooks (top of 2nd, top of 4th).

Photos of Rites of Spring Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P3 Belay. Emerging from the chimney crack transiti...
BETA PHOTO: P3 Belay. Emerging from the chimney crack transiti...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rites of Spring, 5.10d  You can see the first 2 pi...
BETA PHOTO: Rites of Spring, 5.10d You can see the first 2 pi...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 2, 2017
By outdooreric
From: Bishop, CA
Nov 2, 2007

A note should be made about the third pitch. The out of print orange Bishop book shows the route going out left around/under the roof at the end of the chimney. I tried that and encountered a bail nut/biner. The route actually goes out right from the top of the chimney as shown in Croft's book, "The Good, the Great and the Awesome".
By Jonathan Howland
Jul 3, 2009

Best 5.10 route on the East Side in my view -- every pitch good, and every pitch better than its predecessor, physical and sustained. We thought each of the first three pitches was equally challenging and in the .10a/b range. A single easy stretch is the first 40 feet of P3 -- the chimney.
  • Gear beta spoiler alert *
The technical crux on P4 is protected by a pin. A yellow C3 protects the next move, and a slot at the back of the hand traverse takes a yellow alien.
By Michael Loh
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 21, 2010

awesome climb. p1 had some tricky climbing for the shorter person and required some thinking, esp at the crux. I am 5'7" and felt it may go at 10b instead of 10a. I also felt p3 was harder than p4. way more sustained and burly. having said that, the wide section at the end of p4 shut me down for a little bit.
By slim
Jul 12, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

another fantastic route in this beautiful canyon. varied, interesting, fairly sustained, great views. a real good time.
By maggie-girl Wenski
May 1, 2012

Don't remember a pin on p4. Climbed route May 2010
By Adamclimbs
Aug 27, 2012

There is definitely a pin on pitch 4. It was bent from what looked like numerous falls, but it didn't look old or rusty.
By Timbo Stillinger
Jul 7, 2013

Pitch one and two just link with a 70m and make an incredible continuous super fun full value mega pitch.
By Neil Rankin
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Mar 1, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The third pitch is about the same difficulty as the fourth, both about 10+.
By Morgan Nutting
From: Bishop, CA
May 14, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Every pitch is great!
By Eric Fjellanger
Sep 19, 2014

Excellent climb! I found the technical crux short, and the rest of the climbing physical and sustained.

Located a little ways left of Pratt's Crack, just before the Ministry Wall curves up into a gully.

P1: Start in a right-leaning off-fingers crack, which opens and cleans up into a dihedral. Belay on gear on a big ledge. 5.10a
P2: Follow corner up to the base of a chimney, belay on bolts on the face to the right. 5.9
P3: Climb the chimney, move right and pull the exciting roof to the hand crack above. Belay on gear on a ledge. 5.10b
P4: Climb thinning cracks to a fixed pin, and the crux rightward traverse. Pull up into a hand/fist crack that leads to the bolted anchor. 5.10d
By Josh Janes
General Admin
Aug 9, 2015

I led this in two pitches and didn't place a single piece smaller than 0.4 Camalot. Leave the small cams and RP's behind?

I think it would be possible to rap from the top anchor diagonally down to the anchor of Astrolamb and thus rappel with a single 70m cord though I cannot confirm that it works.
By Dave Vaughan
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 28, 2015

Personally I think this is a 2 star route; a few sections of poor rock and several sections of somewhat 'grovely' climbing keep it from being classic in my book. That said, it is certainly worth doing if in the area. As others have mentioned, the first rap is basically a full 200' and requires a significant leftward swing to reach the anchors - I suggest having the first person take knotted ends down with them to avoid any issues.
By kck
Sep 30, 2015

My 70m did not link the first 2 pitches. But then again it was consistently short by a few feet this entire trip. No, ends were not chopped. So be aware if you want to link pitches. If unsure best to break it up.

4th pitch is really short so I believe it is possible to link 3+4.

Also my 65m static line barely touched the ground on rappels (and to the intermediate station). Watch your ends when you rap!
By Keradactyl
From: Golden, Co
Nov 16, 2015

So much fun! The style is very different than other routes in the area - much more traditional and crack-tastic. 100% would do again.
By fivefun
Mar 29, 2016

Super mega classic in my opinion. Great sustained splitter climbing. For me there was definitely no need for small nuts or RPs at crux. Crux protected with a pin and .4 Camalot. I don't remember placing anything below a .3 Camalot.
By earl mcalister
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 2, 2017

Descent can be done with one 70 m rope, all from bolted anchors. Tie knots at the ends as some of them are close and the raps are steep. Rapping pitch 1 to the ground is from bolted anchors of "Free Beaks" on the Ministry Wall.

Pitch lengths for climbing are:
P1: 140 ft
P2: 100 ft
P3: 120 ft
P4: 100 ft

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