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(1) North Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cindyrella T,S 
Dark Tower S 
Frodo's Journey S 
Gandalf's Grip T 
Gandalf’'s Peach T 
Peach Cling T 
Pipen's Direct T 
Risky Business T,S 
Skullduggery  T 
Traffic Court T 

Risky Business 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: July 1987 by Wayne Wallace & Bob McGown
Page Views: 675
Submitted By: another Chad on Nov 11, 2013

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The start of Risky Business.

Description 

Risky Business starts at a nice belay ledge which is most easily accessed via Gandalf's Peach. Climb out left from the belay on a series of large, sloping edges. Round the corner and disappear from view of your belayer. Move up past a fixed pin and make some long reaches to jugs. After the piton the climb gets steeper though large jugs continue to appear at opportune times. Pull up to the p2 anchor for Gandalf's Grip. The second pitch of Risky Business starts by traversing right past the p3 dihedral of GG. Get into the next dihedral over and head to the top. From what I gather, p2 of RB is rarely done. Keep an eye out for Poison Oak near the top.

Protection 

Gear to 2" for Gandalf's Peach. Consider using runners on most of the bolts on p1 of Risky Business. Gear to 1" for the second pitch.


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By another Chad
Nov 19, 2013

The first pitch of Risky Business is one of my favorites at Broughton Bluff.


Chad
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Apr 3, 2017

Strange, balancy, slopey sequence through the traverse. Once around the corner, the bolts are homemade angles from who knows when. You can also continue left into Gandalf's 2nd pitch.

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