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Rising Star 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kent Benesch, Alan Watts, 1980
Page Views: 254
Submitted By: Max Tepfer on Mar 14, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Given two stars in the Watts guide, this route is a bit of neglected classic. Mellow jamming up a shallow left facing corner leads to an engaging sequence turning a roof. Above that long lock-offs on positive locks take you to the chains.

Location 

3-4 lines right of Quasar. Look for two roofs immediately left of Pet Cemetery. Rising Star climbs the left most corner under the roofs.

Protection 

Gear to #2 C4.


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By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Oct 22, 2014

I had a terrible time on this route because there are two different pinch points that can eat the rope, and I was somehow unlucky enough to get the rope sucked into both of them. Completely debilitating rope drag.

The first pinch point is at the lip of the roof. I would recommend placing a nut there just to block the crack and prevent the rope from getting sucked in there, although I still think you could easily end up with bad rope drag there even with the nut. The second pinch point was a bit higher and I still don't really know how that one happened. This route would be fun and worth doing if you can avoid the rope drag...

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