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(8) Old School Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Dipper T 
Bulge, The T,TR 
Flayel Bop T 
Jack the Ripper T 
Little Dipper T 
Mountaineer's Route T 
Orion S 
Outshined T 
Pandora's Box S 
Pisa T,TR 
Piton Variation  S 
Queasy T 
Ripper T 
Rusty Cage T 
Standing Ovation S 
Stigmata T 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 1984 Jim Opdycke, Mike Jackson
Season: Year round
Page Views: 362
Submitted By: Derrick Peppers on Sep 2, 2009  with updates from Topher Dabrowski

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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This finger crack follows a dihedral up to the crux bulge and then opens up to chains on your right side. Can be continued directly up Jack The Ripper(5.10b) (crack on left) or "Piton Variation"(10+)(Dihedral on right) to the Orion ledge. You can also step right and walk up the final blocks of Little Dipper to the same anchor.


This route can be found at the top of the hill just left of Mordor just right of Stigmata on the old school wall. Look for a well chalked finger crack in a dihedral. There should be a medium sized tree just a few feet left of the start.


Pro to 2". new chains at the top.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Judging by the description, I think this is Ripper...
Judging by the description, I think this is Ripper...

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By Obi
From: Portland, OR
Jun 9, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The 5 foot pillar at the start of the climb, the top of which serves as a convenient starting hand and eventual foothold, is very loose. Be very mindful if you're using it. Alternate starts are possible, and I'm fairly certain they don't add a whole lot to the grade.
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Oct 2, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Best finger crack at Ozone for sure. Too bad its so short. It can be lead with one medium nut and one or two finger to medium size cams. Then extend it to the Orion Belay anchors by going up Jack the Ripper (10b) or Piton Variation.

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