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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob Horan and Richard Rossiter, TR, 1996. Bolted and led by R. Rossiter, 2000
Page Views: 5,373
Submitted By: Chris Archer on Oct 19, 2003

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Steve Monks on Ripcord.

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  • Description 

    Just right of Free Fall is this excellent, short, powerful route, characterized mainly by big moves off good jams and holds. Pumpy climbing leads to a crux deadpoint/lunge at the 4th bolt. A few delicate yet tricky slab moves keep you on your toes until the anchors. Tape may be useful on the index finger of the right hand.


    5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

    Photos of Ripcord Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: On his 2nd attempt, Mico Alejandro makes easy work...
    On his 2nd attempt, Mico Alejandro makes easy work...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Often mistaking himself for being in an Off-Broadw...
    Often mistaking himself for being in an Off-Broadw...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dave moving above the 4th bolt.
    Dave moving above the 4th bolt.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Archer setting up for the moves past the fou...
    Chris Archer setting up for the moves past the fou...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ripcord.  The route starts just downhill from the ...
    BETA PHOTO: Ripcord. The route starts just downhill from the ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Archer on the strenuous moves by the third b...
    Chris Archer on the strenuous moves by the third b...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Peter preparing to flash the crux of Ripcord.
    Peter preparing to flash the crux of Ripcord.

    Comments on Ripcord Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 12, 2017
    By Richard Rossiter
    Oct 26, 2003

    FA update. Bob and I toproped this route together in 1996. We never got back to it. During the summer of 2000, I returned with Bonnie Von Grebe, placed the bolts and led the route for the first time.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jun 20, 2004

    Despite its length this route kicks a....
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jun 30, 2005

    11d, no move garder than V3... unless you miss the big-ol' sidepull out left. Super fun.
    By Lon Black
    Jul 16, 2005

    In response to the AC: "No move harder than V3". I agree, but when you have five or so 11+ moves in a row, ratings usually increase a little higher than 11+. For example, in Indian Creek there are tons of routes that might not have a move harder than 5.10, but the route is rated 5.11 because of the sustained nature. A couple old school guys were out there today, and they thought it was 12 a/b.
    By Kevin Neilson
    From: Boulder
    Sep 26, 2005
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    I'm not quite sure if this is a 12, but I'll allow myself to be convinced to pump up my ego. The climb is short but is pretty strenuous. The fingerlock at the bottom is better than you think: use your right hand in it with the index finger at the bottom. It locks in there pretty well, or at least enough to get the left hand to the next ledge. The crux for me is matching my hands on the little ledge above the third bolt and then getting my left hand to the bomber sidepull. Then I can take my legs completely off and set them up for the dyno. With the sidepull and your right foot in the proper location, the dyno is easy and not that much of a dyno. Then you are on a big ledge with just a slightly tricky section to follow before the anchors. Some people use intermediates to avoid the dyno, but I think it makes it harder. I originally used a sequence that took me to the right and avoided the dyno, but I felt that was off-route so I abandoned that tack.
    By Dave Pilot
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 20, 2006
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Agree that this seems easier than 12b. The "dyno" from the sidepull can be done statically, just barely, for guys of average height. It's a jug when you get there. I thought the hardest part was pulling onto the slab above. This is a fun route. Thanks, Richard, for putting it up.
    By Tim Fleming
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 27, 2006
    rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    My first 5.12! I pulled the crux statically by having my feet high on the wall - there's a great, little, angled band of sharp rock to the left of the 3rd bolt that makes it easier to reach the jug if you're short like me. It's a nice short route.
    By Ben Randolph
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 17, 2006

    This is a good route/boulder problem. In my opinion, it is a million times better than Freefall.
    By Joshua Myatt
    Sep 24, 2006

    Second bolt needs tightening. The nut can be removed with your fingers. Might need some Lock-Tight.
    By Aeon Aki
    Aug 15, 2007
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    I would consider myself average height (5'10" with a 0" ape index), and nowhere on this route did I find a move that would be even close to requiring a dyno or a deadpoint. That said, what's the beta for the lunge? Which holds are "off"?
    By dr.natalie
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 27, 2008

    My first 5.12 as well. Definitely did not use the right hand finger lock, nor did I do a dyno anywhere. Could NOT reach the right hand after the sidepull, so used the left out left then a right hand facing left right above it, then mantle. Topout that way is pretty smooth-although sketch. I think there is lotsa different beta for this route.
    By Jon Zucco
    From: Denver, CO
    May 18, 2009

    haha ignore the crimpy crystal rail above the third well as the huge side pull to the left and slightly below the jug. now...jump!
    By John Kearney
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 12, 2009

    definately a little easier for the people with the wingspan. i'm 6'1" and the moves weren't all that hard but a little pumpy. shorter people might have a little harder time but for me it probably went around 11c. jus remember that grade doesn't account for people's height. definately a cool route to project, not too hard to set up the top rope (draws are pretty close together, aside from the techy slab). enjoy!
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Aug 16, 2009

    I tried to lead this route but kept falling trying to get established above the roof, which led to some nasty swings. It is very easy to set up a tr on the bolts on the slab above. Once on tr I really think the deadpoint to the jug is the onsight crux, but it really isn't that far of a move.
    By Michael Loh
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 21, 2010

    Deadpoints are necessary as you are off balance the whole time, but no need to dyno. Only beta I can give is to not clip the third bolt. The fall is safe unless you fall while pulling rope for the 4th bolt, which probably won't happen because the clipping hold is a huge jug.
    By Bal Rau
    From: Denver, Colorado
    May 3, 2012

    Beware of TR-ing this. My rope either got rubbed against an edge or got stuck in an undercling above the roof, but I had to cut 15 feet off.
    By slim
    Jun 19, 2013
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    Fun route. Would be a good first 12a as it is well-protected and there aren't really any brutal moves on it. Probably the only knock against it is that it is quite short, but it still packs in some good climbing.
    By Chrissy Crushes
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 14, 2013

    I am 5' 5", did not need to deadpoint, and definitely did not dyno...if you use good feet and the holds on the left...technique will see you through....
    By Jeff Welch
    From: Denver, CO
    Aug 16, 2015
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Soft 12a, but I think that's a fair grade. May feel easier if you're about 6' or taller (or have an equivalent ape index).

    Really fun, gymnastic movement! 4* moves but can only give it 3* because it's so short. I found it much easier to skip the 4th bolt, as it's a fairly strenuous clip and the fall onto the 3rd bolt if you don't stick the deadpoint is totally clean (I checked, several times).
    By Chad Elliott
    From: Golden
    Sep 12, 2017
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    I personally thought this was harder than Free Fall next to it. The onsight crux was dancing around trying to figure out best way to clip bolt after roof. Fun overall.

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