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Riparian Daydream 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Alex Bury (September 2014)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 5,083
Submitted By: Alex Bury on Sep 24, 2014

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Topping out the formation

Description 

Riparian Daydream rises from the edge of the creek to the top of the massive cobblestone formation overlooking the gorge. The first two pitches are sport bolted while the third pitch includes a traditionally protected finger and hand crack.

Rockfall can present a hazard for people below. Make sure the base is clear before attempting the upper pitches.

Pitch One - 60 ft , 5.10-
A crux down low leads to easier but steep and sustained moves up high. Five bolts.

Pitch Two - 95 ft , 5.9+
Climb the blocks and ledges to reach the crux at the small roof and the long, airy slab above. Eight bolts.

Pitch Three - 65 ft , 5.10-
Complete some steep, bolt protected moves to get established in the crack. The crack starts at finger sized and widens to hands. A second, bolt protected roof above the crack leads to the top. Five bolts, single cams #.4-3.

  • Use care when topping out. The rock quality deteriorates just below the top.
  • A 60m rope or longer is mandatory for the rappels (A 70m is recommended). Make sure to knot your lines, the second pitch rappel will put you very near the ends if using a 60m.

Location 

The first pitch begins in the main cobblestone area, between Cruiser and Aha!/Silent Mind.

Protection 

  • 8 quickdraws
  • Single rack of cams #.4-3


Photos of Riparian Daydream Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lynn Hill tr'ing pitch one.
Lynn Hill tr'ing pitch one.
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting into the crack on the third pitch.
Getting into the crack on the third pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the final roof.
Pulling the final roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out.
Topping out.
Rock Climbing Photo: Third pitch jams.
Third pitch jams.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the canyon.
Looking down the canyon.
Rock Climbing Photo: Spencer following pitch one.
Spencer following pitch one.
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving toward the crack on the third pitch.
Moving toward the crack on the third pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Spencer following the second pitch.
Spencer following the second pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Riparian Daydream and The Wheel.
Riparian Daydream and The Wheel.

Comments on Riparian Daydream Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 16, 2017
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Sep 24, 2014

Dev. Notes:
Riparian Daydream was a solo project that began on August 25 when I installed the topmost anchor and rappelled off. I fixed lines on the separate pitches to facilitate cleaning and bolting, and ran many laps up the wall via mini traxion. In late September I gave the route its first lead.

The name is a tribute to the magical creekside spaces along the various arms of the Matilija.
By Cole Gibson
Dec 4, 2014

Hoooooo man! Let me start by saying this has got to be the coolest new route in Ojai, maybe even Ventura County, that's been put up in the last decade.

5 minutes from the car, 3 pitches, consistent difficulty, line is almost dead straight, bolted anchors, sick exposure, a cool crack that takes gear, amazing summit. What more could you ask for!? Even just the first pitch makes a great new addition to the area.

I had the pleasure of leading all 3 pitches with none other than the man himself, Alex, on belay. I think the ratings in the description are pretty right on and I definitely had some moments on the climb where I really had to bring it together to preserve the onsight.

All said and done I think this route is destined to be an area classic. Not only is it just a plain fun climb but also makes for a great route for people learning multi pitch techniques.

Get on it!
By Scott Perry
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 3, 2015

Really cool route. P1 was sustained and solid, P2 has exposure, P3 obviously has the conglomerate crack and a surprisingly difficult roof to pull (maybe I was getting pretty tired at this point but this felt harder than the 1st pitch for me), and a great view from the top. The only negative is that there was A LOT of loose rock the higher you go. I hope it cleans up over time, but for now I emphasize what was said above and be cautious of climbing P2 or 3 if anyone is in the canyon below.
By Matt "Buckey" Biesak
From: Las Angeles, CA
Sep 24, 2015
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

I did the route on 9-21-2015
Beautiful route up the most obvious line to the highest point on the crag. I absolutely recommend wearing helmets there is a high chance of knocked off loose rock towards the top. The crux for me was pulling the bulge after the crack on the last pitch. The crack on the last pitch also felt harder than anything on the first pitch, but that could have just been me getting pumped placing gear. Overall a bold and fun route. Nice FA Alex!
By Chris Lorimer
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 13, 2016
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R

Avoid this route if there are people climbing nearby routes. There will be lots of falling rock. Walking off avoids having to dodge meteors when pulling your rope on the rap.
By Thomas Q
Apr 26, 2016

Climbed this for the first time with my wife as a second for all three pitches on 4/23/16. Overall, good multipitch and gets more and more "adventure climbing" as you approach the summit.

P1: Best rock (cobblestone) is here, crux was between bolts 2 and 3 for me (5.9). Good dirt belay station with 2 rap rings at start of P2.

P2: More "adventure like" - good exposure and more chossy. No real crux here, sub-5.9 sustained climbing. Uncomfortable belay station with 2 rap rings at start of P3.

P3: Mental pitch, starts off with a crack that eats up gear that starts vertical and tapers right. After the crack, you will reach the crux of the entire climb at the bulge as others have mentioned (5.10a/b for me (6'0 height)). After the bulge, the climb gets really sketchy (easy climbing) as the rock becomes mud and dirt with cobblestones that can be pulled off. *Careful that there are no people in the gorge if you climb this as rock fall can be fatal if it hits someone at the base. The summit is pretty cool, good views and a sage and rosemary plant. Be sure you wear a jacket and pants - I got eaten up by mosquitos and nosium bugs. There was 1 rap ring with some damaged webbing. We added a new red webbing and another bail beaner for redundancy. Had no problems with the descent to the base.

Side note: As we were on P2's start, we got to met Alex Bury! Thanks for setting the route bro!
By A Johnson
From: Paso Robles
Jul 5, 2016

I had the pleasure of getting on the first pitch of this one recently. I can't wait to come back when it's a little cooler to climb the whole route. Pitch one was a blast and the area is very cool.
By tony bird
Jul 9, 2016

climbed the first two pitches of this route the other day with a 70-meter rope. it just made it from the second pitch anchor back to the first. a 60 meter would have come up short.

loved the route--the second pitch reminded me of tahquitz climbing, but with bolts to clip.
By Sam Cody
Jul 16, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X

Climbed this recently. Could use a good cleaning. Super chossy. Belayer be forewarned; wear a helmet!! Also a name change to repair this damn dream should be considered.
By Dawn Proctor
Jul 17, 2016

I don't understand what Sam is talking about with this route being "super chossy" it's solid cobblestone and the route is super fun! I haven't done the 3rd pitch but the first two are awesome. The only thing you have to watch out for is knocking rocks off the ledge where the first set of anchors are. As for it needing a new name to repair that dream- i think it's a little tacky to throw out an insult like that. Climbing is about connecting with Mother Nature, connecting with people, challenging your body, having fun and supporting one another. If you don't care for the route, that's fine but there's no needs for insults on a public forum.
By Joe Garibay
From: Ventura, Ca
Jul 22, 2016

Fantastic route! Thank you Alex.
By Buddy Nielsen
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 13, 2016

Can't stress it enough for the belayer to wear a helmet! Also, if you have dogs around the area make sure they are kept away when anyone is climbing this, as you don't want the puppers getting slammed. Super fun climb! Only did the first pitch but next time I will make sure to do the whole thing!
By Nicholas Bousse
Apr 9, 2017

Finally got the chance to climb this whole route after having done the first pitch many times! Pitch three features around twenty feet of sweet jamming on surprisingly good gear and nice rock quality. Sections of the third pitch, mainly the last twenty feet or so, could definitely use some cleaning up though. The rock quality does deteriorate a bit, but it mainly just needs some traffic.

All the anchors were in good shape and featured nice fat quicklinks. Thanks for putting this route up Alex!
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Apr 14, 2017

A quick update regarding the route:

After nearly three seasons the route has become a unique feature in the gorge and a popular "first multipitch". It's a diverse climb and so it lends itself to that duty. And the airy summit provides a proper top-out experience.

This has resulted in lots of traffic, which, combined with the recent storms, has left the line in great shape. The entire route is becoming surprisingly solid. The last couple body lengths include lower quality rock but even that seems to be improving.

I'm really glad to see the route serving the area so well. Hearing from people who have enjoyed it is an honor. Much thanks to everyone for the input.


Rock Climbing Photo: ab
ab
By michael w. levanduski
From: ventura
Sep 17, 2017

only did the first pitch of this climb [top roped it ] but it sure was fun ! when i heal up i would like to climb this one to the top. good job Alex
By Nick Todd
4 days ago

As we didn't have gear, we only did the first two pitches.

The first pitch is classic Gorge conglomerate where as the second pitch is a must do for anyone who is looking for an exposed and thought-provoking experience. After bolt 4 or 5, the exposure takes over and you are feeling it!

Overall, if you're stuck with draws, I highly recommend the second pitch. Beware of rock fall - a few chunks flew off, our friends below stuck to the otherside of the gully. Also, we had a 60-meter rope - Alex is right, you will barely make it back to top of the first pitch lowering from the pitch two anchors. Tie those ends!

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