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Tombstone
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R.I.P. 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A2+ R

   
Type:  Aid, 3 pitches, 250', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A2+ R [details]
FA: Sam Lightner Jr. and Forest Dramis, 04/24/04
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 909
Submitted By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Apr 24, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: topo, R.I.P.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Forest Dramis and I established a new route on the SE Face of the Tombstone. The route is overnhanging much of the way, requires a lot of different aid techiniques, and has a 1 minute approach. Why it had not been done before baffles me, but it hadn't. We put in double half inch bolt rappels, free hanging, to get off the thing, Its definitely the beast way down as it is a fun 180 foot free hanging rappel where your rope is very unlikely to get stuck. The route is called R.I.P.... probably 5.10b A2+P1 (5.10b, 80 ft.)starts on the left side of the huge flake at the base of the middle of the S.E Face... right above the parking lot. Climb over a small roof then up and offwidth corner with a couple of bolts for gear. Good ledge at the belayP2 (A2+, 90 ft.) strait up the thin crack for 40 plus feet. Mostly LA's and blades at the start with the odd thin angle. Then friends of all sizes, your own dowels or removeable bolts, and a few bolts. Ends at another small ledge.P3 (A2+ 90 ft.)traverses on 4 bolts to the right to a knifeblade crack. There are a few fixed pieces. Over a roof, into a corner, then scramble to the summit. Gotto use a lot of different stuff here, including a rotten hook move (reachy spot). Use a big hook. Need lots of slings to lower rope drag. Belay on the summit.This climb was on some of the softest rock we have climbed on in the desert. We drilled a few holes for bolts to catch us if a whole line of thin pins pulled. Unfortuneately the holes collapsed! This left them as dowel holes. Half inch removeable bolts might work in them, but other wise, you need to carry a few 3/8 inch by 2 inch machine bolts to hand place in the holes. Don't pull out! The route could be A2, or it could be A4. Hard to tell until you fall on one of those pieces!

Sam

Protection 

10 LA's (various)10 knife blades (various)2 x 1/2 inch angles2 x 5/8 inch angles1 x 3/4 inch angle1 x 3/8 by 2 inch machine bolt for dowel hole hookingmedium to large nuts1 set of friends to #5


Photos of R.I.P. Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2, R.I.P.
Pitch 2, R.I.P.

Comments on R.I.P. Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Oct 29, 2004

Possibly the reason it was not climbed previously is the over use of pitons. This will soon cause unsightly damage this sandstone rock . Suggest as with the other routes on the Tombstone only clean aid should be used with as few as possible FIXED bolts.
By Jay 1975
From: Bonedale,CO
Nov 20, 2005

i just did this route on 11-7, and onjly used 5 kb placements and am sure it will go clean at a c3-ish level.also removed 2 pins on the top bulge pitch. ithey were almost falling out, maybe someone forgot to clean them?i think i was the second?, judging by the scars.nice line though! good solo!

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