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The Dark Side
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Rip It 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 73
Submitted By: Clint Valentine on Jul 26, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Climb up using the backside of the pillar, which is easier climbing. Stem and undercling and offwidth your way up to the top for a great break. Then start up onto the 5.11 slab above to anchors.

Protection 

6 bolts to anchors. This has red painted hangers to start.


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By Taketaketaketaketake
From: Colorado Springs
Oct 9, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

Good freaking climb!

Mostly pretty easy (and fun) climbing under / through / around the detached pillars leads to harder sustained face climbing up high. The bolts are a little scary, especially at the crux, and there's potential for ledge falls in a few places.

This has two new shiny bolts in addition to the original bedframe style hangers. I didn't count, but I think there are now 8 bolts total in addition to the anchors.

I thought this was easier than Red Devil (10d) shortly to the right of this climb. I suspect that's because Red Devil's crux is a fairly height dependent boulder problem, whereas Rip It's crux is sustained technical climbing, which I'm better at.