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Riot Act 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: BJ Sbarra, Dave Meyer
Page Views: 95
Submitted By: BJ Sbarra on Aug 19, 2008

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Climb up the slab to a bolt, then over a small roof. Continue up thoughtful moves along the right trending weakness until you get to an anchor on the nice face below the big roof.

The route used to continue up through the hollow roof to a higher anchor, but the anchor has since been lowered to avoid climbing on such a big, hollow feature that one day would likely have come off with someone attached to it. The "new" version of the climb doesn't have the fun roof but is still worth doing, and much safer.


Start where the trail meets the base of the wall, at the second fixed line.


7 bolts.

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By tps2112
Oct 29, 2008

Riot Act incident: Oct 26th 3.30pm
I was leading-stepped to the right of the 5th bolt and not just a rock, about a 100lbs boulder broke out from under me. (18" tall 18" wide 8-10" deep) Fell down, bounced off the slab and hit my belayer (Ray Deshane) in the right hand and ribs. After my unexpected whipper, our third climber (Chad Mickshl) immediately responded to Ray. The boulder gashed his right hand but HE NEVER LET GO. First thing out of Ray's mouth "Tim, I still got you!" Chad grabbed the rope, let me down and we both jumped into first aid mode. Everyone did EXACTLY what we were suppossed to. Calm, collected Chad irrigated the gash in the hand and wrapped it up. Continued checking in on Ray's breathing and his ribs. We had him to Valley View Emergency room within an hour. 20 stitches and a couple fractured ribs later we are all VERY lucky and fortunate to be climbing with experienced friends! My deepest gratification to Ray for not dropping me and we'll be climbing again SOON. WEAR HELMETS, BRING FIRST AID KITS AND KNOW HOW TO USE THEM, TAKE CARE OF EACH OTHER!
Tim Power Smith
By nick.laws
Jun 29, 2010

Went to climb one of my favorite 10a's after work today and found out the funnest part had been taken out of the climb by the anchor lowering! What a bummer. BJ: Could the hangers be re-added to the bolts above so that the option remains? I've never noticed the roof being the least bit unsafe - though I haven't investigated it at length.
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Jul 5, 2010

Hey Nick,
The roof on Riot Act is indeed quite hollow, as is the feature out right that you stand on as you pull the roof, at some point it will loosen up and fall off the cliff. I can sleep a lot better now knowing there won't be a climber pulling over it when it cuts loose.

I'm sorry to have taken away a fun part of the climb, but we all felt it was the right thing to do.
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Sep 8, 2013

Did this climb last summer. Happy to say the rock was (or seemed) safe and stable. Definitely a must do.

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