|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R [details]|
|FA:||G. Hurley & B. Culp, 1965 FFA: of finish Erickson & Walsh|
|Fixed Hardware:||1 Lead Bolt [details]|
|Submitted By:||Tony B on Nov 22, 2001|
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|Comments on Rinodina||Add Comment|
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By Lenny Miller
Mar 26, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Combining P1-2 was difficult for my partner (lots of rope drag) and took a full 60m. I suggest belaying below the rotten band as Levin describes in the guidebook. He found a good belay just below the P3 roof (on the face below the ledge) that helped make the roof a bit safer to lead. I found reasonable small gear below the P3 roof, and a 0.5 Camalot at the lip. Nonetheless, I agree with Tony - the roof is a fright-fest and felt like 10- to me. Getting established to the right is the crux - after you've committed to the move. I pulled a 6" square x 1" thick plate off while searching for a hold. Very unnerving. The bolt is an old rusty 1/4" that I wouldn't place much faith in (replacement anyone?). There is some good gear on this pitch, but it is spicy. P4 is solid, with good gear, until the traverse L to the Pt Break belay, where a fall would result in a nasty swing back into the dihedral.
Overall, P1 & 2 are bombs, the roof is hard and scary, but the position and climbing above that are quite good.
Oct 1, 2012
Definitely adventure climbing in Eldo...Dan G. combined the first two pitches, and we were apparently off route. He ended up climbing just right of a very small tree/bush (his only pro in 40 feet) through a nasty rotten band up to a small, right-facing dihedral. He traversed right up the ramp from there to join the last section of Point Break. Not terribly hard climbing but extremely run out and very rotten. Probably R/X given that you would hit the slab below if you fell. Rope drag was the worst I have ever seen - easily 40-60 lbs (I belayed the third in our group). I would break it into two if I ever did it again.
The pitch 3 roof was more tricky than difficult. Acceptable gear might hold and might keep you off of the ramp if it holds. Once you figure out the feet and commit, the moves aren't that hard. After you pull the roof, you can get some questionable gear, and then about 20 feet farther right you get two bomber placements. The "bolt" is an artifact, although it seemed good for its age and the fact that it was a 1/4 incher.
All in all, I would give the route 1 star for quality of climbing; however, the runout on pitch 2 through the rotten band will keep me from climbing this again.