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This is a variation finish on the final steep headwall. From a large ledge a pitch beneath the summit, it climbs a corner/face past a piton and a Sotol bush. Traverse out left on the exposed flake/OW (crux) and then go directly to the top. The top of this climb is recognizable by a ;large dead tree.
A variation exists that avoids the lay-back traverse, and climbs directly up into a OW-looking corner at supposedly 5.7.
The large ledge can be reached a couple ways. It is roughly directly above Green Thumb
, and can be reached by a pitch-worth of climbing from the top of that climb. Also, it can be reached by traversing left from the last belay ledge of Cross-trainer
to a piton, and then up onto the ledge. Descend as for Cross-trainer
. The obvious land-mark to look for in identifying this route is the large dead juniper at the summit, which is directly where this climb tops-out.
A big cam for turning the crux, and some smaller pieces for before/after. The piton looks to be in good shape, and can easily be backed-up/skipped.
By Marta Reece
From: Las Cruces, NM
Nov 29, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
As best I can tell this is the same as the finish of King Me. If somebody knows better, please straighten me out.